The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area Paint and Body Shop What do the Pro's use for rust treatment

On my 65 Chev pickup...the bodyman wants to undercoat the chasis with texured undercoating along with under the hood. There is probably some light rust on the underside of the hood...otherwise in fair condition.

However i plan to keep this truck and so want to use the best and not just cover it up with undercoating.

My first thought was just to brush on rustolium. However i am now aware... thanks to this site... of Zero Rust.

And the other day another guy mention Por 15...i looked up the por 15 site...look a four step process.

So what is your choice for preventing rust in general??? Rustolium? Por15? Zero Rust? or something else?

Your opinions appreciated

Starrider

[ 01-04-2002: Message edited by: starrider88 ]

rustolium only prevents rust if its already there the rust will come back. por 15 is dangerious due to the iscoltites (I failed spelling in grade school!) and cant be sprayed only brushed and leaves brush marks plus its multi-steps. zero rust is great it kills the present rust and is safe to spray not very chip proof so I plan to top coat the zero rust with something harder on mine. Eastwood has some chasis paint that they say is chip proof and strong. Thats my story and Iam sticking to it! Later

SR, Mallard & All:
Let me outline the procedure I used on my rig that is now at the painters having the body and paint work done.
I used Zero Rust inside all the cavities as well as the frame, floor pans, top and bottom, and all suspension pieces. On the bottom of the floor pans I used Duplicolor's single stage bed liner 'cause I hate isocyanates and I'm real curious to see how it holds up long term. I also think it will stay cleaner than the tar like undercoats. But in any event, I have the steel sealed with the ZR. If the second coat dries and comes loose, which has been known to happen with undercoat, the steel is still protected.
I'm always on the look out for easy to work with products that won't kill the weekend resto folks. The Duplicolor stinks like crazy but with a fan and a little upwind engineering, it's easy to work with......
Any of the 2K urethane bed liners will probably require a fresh air system. Just a word of caution. There is an excellent thread on this at autobodystore.com right now.
Cheers.........

Bruce, Hope you have better luck with truck bed coating. I used it under fenders on my car, wasn't overly impressed. Scratches too easy when I was reassembling parts had to go back and touchup.
How did you use Zero-Rust and provide a roughened surface that they recommended?I think they recommend putting over bare metal sanded with 36 grit to give metal bite.

I,m not sure how well Rust-O-leum keeps metal from rusting, but dad fixed up a '62 F*** 1/2 ton pickup in around 1968. Painted it with Rusty Metal Primer and Topcoated with I think they called it Sky Blue. He drove it for 4-5 years, sold it to my uncle who drove it till '78, he sold it another fellow and it was still wearing the same paint. Last I seen of it was mid '80's still blue. This truck was an everyday driver, winter salt and all.

The Zero Rust prep was a cup brush on a grinder followed by a pressure wash to get the oil and grease cleaned off.

Like I said the single stage bed liner is a test, just for the learning, but on the surface it looks promising.

Has anybody priced having a bedliner applicator mask & shoot
the bottom of a rig? I'm hearing numbers here in Oregon that wll bring tears to your eyes. Just curious.....

Bruce Palmer
[email protected]

Bruce, At Canfield Swap Meet they had fellows there from where they spray in bedliners, if I remember it was in the $400-450 range. A friend of mine used the Duplicolor Bedliner in the gallons with some in the spray cans for getting back in corners. The only problem he had was after about 6 months it was getting grayish looking. I don't know if this was caused by weathering or from sun.

All the Duplicolor I used was in "chip guard" areas and won't see the sun unless I tip something over.

Even in the hotrod urethane bedliners, fading can be a problem in some brands....

what brands do not have a fading problem???

Solo,
I knew the minute I wrote that someone would ask that question.

I have it from a reasonably reliable source that the Morton bedliner kit is very good for UV resistance. Beyond that, I know nothing and can back it up with fact......... I guess just keep your eyes open and ask guys with spray in bedliners whose product was used and how long it's been in. Ought to be easy in your country.... You only get about 900 days of sun a year.....
Cheer...

Bruce Palmer
[email protected]

thanks Bruce... I think a lot of them now have a UV protectant that can be applied after the product is sprayed, and is suppose to solve that.

while my k5 is down & out - waiting to finish saving for the engine - I want to finish a few things I was going to do to it, and use it as a practice test bed before I start my truck...

I'm going to rhino line the complete interior, probably use the roll on herculiner. I've heard of people doing multiple coats with the herculiner for extra thickness. I'm going to try that on the floor to give me some good insulation.

p.s.

how flat / glossy if the finish of the zero rust? I need to cure some surface rust on the k5. I was thinking about sanding it down to metal, and putting zero rust on it.

I'm looking for a flat black look though; would the zero rust be good enough, or do you have a product you'd recommend to use over it?

ZR has been used by friends for engine compartments 'cause it is just about that satin flat look that GM had stock. Direct to metal, no primer, no topcoat...

well, looks like I found my perfect paint for my off-road vehicle. I've heard that zero rust if tuff as nails too!

I'll probably have to get a spray gun... don't think tons of cans of aerosols would be practical.

Hey Gang,

I would like to try Zero Rust, where is the best place to get it? or let me put it this way, the cheapest place?

Thanks

Brian

I get mine online at www.zerorust.com.
JC Whitney has a limited selection of ZR also
http://www.jcwhitney.com/productnoitem.jhtml?CATID=4508&BQ=jcw2

Field test ALERT: Len Stuart @ autobodystore.com has just published the results (so far) of a POR15/ZR test he did on some motor mounts on a commercial fishing vessel. Interesting reading...

Link Bruce refers to

http://www.autobodystore.com/cgi-bin/config.pl?read=55829

Not to start a rust treatment war here, but there's several things wrong with what's been said here.

First, POR 15 is not dangerous if properly handled. I have painted it on my frame using brushes and gotten it on my skin with no ill effects. Brush painting doesn't create a lot of vapors, so normal air circulation is enough to ventilate the work area. Also, I had no problem with brush strokes as one person indicated.

Second, POR 15 can be spray painted. Just follow the directions, use proper ventilation and mix it according to the directions.

Third, the POR 15 vs. Zero Rust comparison at autobodystore.com has a fatal flaw. He used a #24 disc to grind the metal. POR 15 specifically states that you do not want shiny metal, and if you sandblast or otherwise smooth the surface first, you will not get good adhesion. One of the nice things about POR 15 is it requires little or no preparation.

The key to using any product is to know how it's supposed to be used.

Zero Rust will chip if struck. POR 15 will not. So, I chose POR 15 for my frame and undercarriage because I don't want to be constantly crawling under there recoating chipped areas.

Both products are good. You just have to use them according to the directions.

Hi Folks.

as far as using the do it yourself bedliners, for things other than the bed... the off road 4x4 guys use it for doing the floor of their trucks and the tubs of their jeeps and whatnot. So.. checking out some of those sites might give ya some ideas. 4wheeloffroad.com has a review of using both Herculiner and Durbak... if u can find it using their search engine for their page.

Also, http://www.rockcrawler.com/ in the Tech section, under Armour and Protection, have pictures and step by step commentary of applying both Durabak and Herculiner. So, ya'll can check that out to see if it is something you want to mess with.

I myself have used the black Herculiner for doing a bed... it has product that is like a top coat that protects against UV rays, and is 'supposed to keep it from fading, but we didn't use it on our S-10. So, if you are thinking of doing Herculiner, feel free to message/email me.

just, sharing the information.

Paul, I've used a lot of POR in the past, leaving the rust in place and applying POR gives the effect of the piece looking like it has leprocy. ZR may chip when struck with a hammer. The price difference and the toxins involved when you compare POR15 with Zero Rust is a no brainer. Zero Rust wins "every" time.
I've just started using zero rust and I'm blown away at how easy it is to use and how cheap it is.
I've used 3/4 of a gallon and so far I've done two coats on my cab inside and out, top and bottom plus my frame and all that hangs from it.
This stuff covers like nothing I could imagine. And you barely need a fan to protect you from the ingredients.
I find it hard to believe that even whacking it with a hammer would have a negative effect.
Just my opinion and my opinion only.

Thanks for the input, Fatfenders. Coming from you it means a lot. WRT the inside of your cab, did you do a lot of cleanup before applying the ZeroRust? How rusty was your cab inside?

This is where ZR shines; I should mention first that I had the whole thing soda blasted, and I recommend it for us backyard guys. Some areas had rust some did not, I used 400 grit on all surfaces, I sprayed the cab and then lightly sanded where needed before the second coat. I'm real close to leaving the inside of the cab in just ZR, it's not a bad colour at all and my exterior is going to be gray anyway. The jury is still out on that one ... did you see the pictures of the frontend of the Toad? If you did that will show you what the colour is all about. ZR - on the IFS . After looking at that shot the one of the fuel tank gives a better look of it. 30gal Fuel Tank

Well, I appreciate the information, Fatfenders. I'm not anywhere near that point yet, but I've looked under the dash and wondered how I'm going to handle that. Does soda blasting leave any residue? I have a friend who has sternly warned me not to sandblast the inside of the cab "because you'll never get it all out".

I think you've convinced me to use Zero Rust there for sure. I'm still not sure about the areas exposed to moving objects, like the inside of the fenders, the chassis, etc. The POR 15 worked really well, and I tested it with a hammer. Won't even chip when pounded really hard.

Residue was and is a concern.
I power washed mine and then blew off as much water as I could with my compressor. I figure heck minor rust isn't a problem with the Zero Rust so I didn't mind using water.
The fellow told me when he was doing it that he could inject water to keep the dust down.
After two days of rain - there wasn't a hint of mess, unlike sandblasting. I still get sand from under the dash when I slam a door five years after I completed the Canary.
I'm hooked on soda blasting and ZR. It's a perfect combination for us "do it yerselfers".

Well, on your recommendation, that's what I'm gonna do. I've got a friend who's been trying to get me to take the cab to a guy who does bead blasting. I'll check to see if he can do soda blasting for the inside when I get to that point. And I'll stock up on ZeroRust.

I as baldeagle use por15 on the frame and have to agree it is one tuff coating for frames....and I believe I as baldeagle am going to go the same route as advised from Fatfenders with the use of ZR on the inside of the cab. nobody in my local area does soda blasting. I don't have a screw compressor to do it with and my ingersol rand will get to hot doing such a lager area. So my question is this........ How clean does the surface have to be useing ZR. I know with POR15 it doesn't require a surface

darn got sut short on last post....por15 doesn't require a surface to be completely clean. So how clean does the surface have to be to apply ZR to it? Thanks for your inputs

__________________________________________________
37 chevy 1/2 ton

Zero Rust is a strong as the surface you apply it to. It is recommended that you remove all loose, scaley rust. It must be fress of oil - clean it down with lacquer thinner or the like. I've used it on my '51 over what I would call tight rust, meaning that it doesn't flake off when I run a hand over it. A wire wheel will do the job for sure. They figure 3 mils thickness, which is usually two coats as each coat usually 1.5 mils. If you shoot the first coat too heavy, it will take a long time to cure. My routine is first coat, wait a day, (a shorter period in warm weather) then the second coat. Use contrasting colours when applying the second coat so you can tell that you get into all the tight areas. They say Red Oxide and Black are the best to use for the first coat.

Even though POR-15 says it "doesn't require" to be stripped of rust before painting, you will have better results if you sandblast first.

I POR'd a frame and decided later to sandblast it and ZR it. Part of the POR are peeling off in sheets. But most of it takes 4X the work of removing regular paint with the sandblaster.

-Boyo

so basicly all i have to do to fix the surface rust on ,y truck is get rid of the loose stuffand then spray zero rust i hope that it is that easy b\c i am going to paint it while i drive it so if this is wrong please tell me or email me a [email protected]
THanks Hudson

You're right on the target. Just keep in mind ZR only sticks as good as what it is stuck to. Zero Rust sets up real quick, but it takes a while for it to totally "cure" but in Texas I'd guess you be ok in about 10 minutes. Just make sure you give it two coats, at least. One of one colour and the second of a contrasting colour so you can make sure you get it everywhere. Buddy, do yourself a favour. If in fact you're going to "drive it while you paint it", at least drive slow while your spraying.

Got my frame back from sandblaster today! ('53 3100) Wow that works well! I sprayed on zero Rust as directed and boy does it cover well! It looks like a new frame(Actually Better) Seems a shame to bolt on the rest of the truck and hide it!
I am very green when it comes to painting and body work, but it looks very nice. I am proud of what a little time and effort was able to accomplish.
ED

Thanks for all the excellent info!

I have a gallon of corroseal rust converter...
http://www.corroseal.com/corroseal.html

Don't know how it works though... Will be using it soon and I will post the results.

Lotus

A lot of good info here. Thanks to all. As for blasting the cab, glass beads will act just like sand and stick in the cracks. I hadn't thought about washing out the soda with water, sounds like the way to go without having to dip the cab. On the zero-rust vs. the por-15, I haven't used the ZR yet, but will. I have sprayed the POR, and it is a royal pain. I used a Finishline hvlp and had a terrible time getting a decent pattern. Too thick even when diluted to the max recommended. And their topcoat was far worse. I have had excellent adhesion with the POR after sandblasting.

One other comment - I bought a few quarts of the ZR Crystal Coat which is their clear UV protecting top coat. I bet it would work on bed liners too to get them black again and maybe keep them that way. I will know when I get the truck together and then topcoat it, and then ax me again in say...5 years.