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Was watching a restoration show last night, they said they strip to bare metal, clean and put on an Epoxy primer before doing body work. Hammer & Dolly and skimcoat on the primer then primer again. I always thought this would be a good way to go and to cover the bare metal as it was being worked on.

Those of you with experience, what say you?

Thanks, Buddy

Buddy, I saw Charlie on Ammerican Hotrod use epoxy primer and then do the body filer and then prime. I asked on this site and these guys confirmed that epoxy primer was the way to go.
I just got back from the paint store they also confirmed that you should start with epoxy primer. So I invested.
I have a rusty cab that I'm working on and I will be sand blasting the tough areas and DAing the rest then hitting it with the three part epoxy primer, before the fun starts.
Thats my plan.... my 2cents.
Good luck...

A thin coat of epoxy primer provides corrosion resistance. It`s best applied over clean bare metal. It duplicates what`s now used by the OEMs "e-coat". What`s nice about it is you have up to 7 days in some cases to work on it and no need to sand before applying surfacer. Somthing about it`s thermo-plastic state. I still scuff, but it leaves you no worry about the areas that are difficult.

There`s a multitude of uses for it...maybe some others wanna chime in?

Epoxy primer is a great way to seal bare metal. The key is to put it down, and then apply a build primer over it. Do not do body work on the epoxy primer. Each manufacturer will recommend different things I'm sure. I used PPG DPLF epoxy primer on my truck. It's non sandable, and must be coated within a week. I sprayed it on, waited 24 hours, and then shot it with PPG K36 build primer. I then did my body work, etc, sanding the K36, never the epoxy primer. A good way to do this is to get your build and epoxy primer in different colors. Makes it real easy to see if you are sanding down to far.

I too am using the PPG system Tight66Flareside is talking about. Very pleased with the results so far. My PPG dealer told me that when I'm done with the filling and priming with K36, I should put on a seal coat of PPG epoxy primer with 1 part reducer over it, then cover with top coats. He says this will help prevent bleed through.

Tight, what colors did you use? thanks.

Well, PPG DPLF epoxy primer only comes in a light gray, so that was the color of the epoxy primer. I then used a dark gray K36 build primer. (something with more contrast would have been better) My topcoat is PPG DCC Acrylic Urethane paint in "Power Blue" which is about the color a Ford tractor. My grill and bumpers are "Chevy White" also in the DCC paint line. I painted my cab and front end over Thanksgiving and am waiting for warm weather to paint the bed of my truck.

So far, I've been happy with the paint. I shot it myself with a Devilbiss Finishline III HVLP gun, and it went on well, and looks very nice, with a very glossy finish. I chose acrylic urethane paint becuase its a one step (but 2 coats minimum) paint, and if you screw up, you can wet sand and buff it out to a shine. It's simply easier to work with than a basecoat/clearcoat system for a novice painter like me.

I am not positive about this but I think DPLF comes in various colors. Usually the number such as DP "90" LF indicates the color. 90 = black and there are others 40, 20.
Perhaps it is on the website. not sure.
autobodystore.com may have some info also.

I have to say that being a novice painter that the basecoat/clearcoat is easier to use. I started with single stage years ago, but I like the new two stage systems better. Its easier to repair my screw-ups. If you put enough clear on you can color sand until show quality...

I have used epoxy primer in at least 3 colors: grey, white, and black.

You can add red oxide to that list. Thats what i am using. Made by Dupont

I'm using the DP60LF, it's blue. PPG makes several colors of their DP epoxy primer.

DP48-white

DP50-grey

DP90-black

DP74-red oxide

DP60-blue

All are the DPLF or "lead free" version. I still have some of the original DP 74, not the LF version. The latest from PPG is not to seal with the DP system before top coating. The NCS line of PPG sealers are much better suited for that use. They come in grey, white, and black. They are condusive to tinting if wanted. Non-sanding and a 24-36hr window before needing a scuff depending on temp and solvent. DP really sucks to sand if you get a sag before your top coat.

Real deal? Get House of Kolor products and never look back. Easy to use, very user friendly price-wise, and all Komponents are blendable, meaning the base mixes with the klears, sealers, etc. They even still have a lacquer system, but that`s to old skool. Price example...1qt PPG Torch red (2001 Vette) $96, 1qt H.O.K Kosmos red $50. The list goes on. Last benefit, the base will last even after solvent is added. Have some that 3yrs old, reduced, and still good. Have fun with it.