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Apr 26th, 2026 | | AD Chevy Trucks  Over 6,000 pictures Brad Allen has an awesome collection of Chevrolet factory pictures that he has set up from film strips. Check them out!
Lots of work on Brad's part ... pure enjoyment (and references) for you!
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| | | | Joined: Mar 2011 Posts: 86 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Mar 2011 Posts: 86 | After 3 years at the body shop,my part time body man man called. The doors that a friend who put new door skins on my 65c10 messed them up real bad. The body man showed me how the door lines don't match,and the tops stick out about a quarter inch,and the bottom is recessed about the same.This is on the bed end.The hinged gaps are also screwed up. I am probably going to buy new doors...any suggestions? | | | | | Joined: May 2007 Posts: 1,718 Moderator: 60-66 Trucks; North Eastern Bolters | | Moderator: 60-66 Trucks; North Eastern Bolters Joined: May 2007 Posts: 1,718 | Can't you start over, cutting those skins back out and redoing with the lines sorted out? I guess it depends on how much money you need to spend. | | | | | Joined: Mar 2011 Posts: 86 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Mar 2011 Posts: 86 | That would fix line problem. When he welded the skins he warped the doors pretty bad. | | | | | Joined: May 2007 Posts: 1,718 Moderator: 60-66 Trucks; North Eastern Bolters | | Moderator: 60-66 Trucks; North Eastern Bolters Joined: May 2007 Posts: 1,718 | Oh. That makes things more clear. | | | | | Joined: Jan 2007 Posts: 220 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: Jan 2007 Posts: 220 | Try some of the suppliers on this site (4-5-6 Chevy comes to mind).
Be prepared even used doors are going to need work.
I know that I spent a lot of time getting mine in shape and I still need to figure out how to get a better seal at the top of the door.
Keep at it. It will work. | | | | | Joined: Feb 2010 Posts: 82 Crusing in the Passing Lane | | Crusing in the Passing Lane Joined: Feb 2010 Posts: 82 | Hammers and 2x4s come in handy for situations like that. Be surprised what a good body man can do. | | | | | Joined: Mar 2011 Posts: 86 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Mar 2011 Posts: 86 | Thanks for the info. I just have to do some more research and figure out what makes sense. | | | | | Joined: Dec 2001 Posts: 14,522 Moderator: Welcome Centre, Southern Bolters, Legion Hall | | Moderator: Welcome Centre, Southern Bolters, Legion Hall Joined: Dec 2001 Posts: 14,522 | Save yourself some heartache and pepto bismal. There are doors out there that can make you sleep better and in the end may even save some money with better "end results".
Jay "Lugnutz" bought a truck recently. Not sure if its a parts truck or not but may be worth looking him up....and putting an ad in the Swap Meet Parts Wanted section.
...."I think we should get wiser as we get older" Good luck keep us posted. | | | | | Joined: Mar 2011 Posts: 86 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Mar 2011 Posts: 86 | I will contact him. I did find some doors from Aspen auto. I am talking to them about purchasing. Thanks again! | | | | | Joined: May 2005 Posts: 8,983 Sir Searchalot | | Sir Searchalot Joined: May 2005 Posts: 8,983 | I agree with getting good donor doors(Alvin). Doors should be fitted/mocked-up/adjusted without ANY rubber or latches as far as X and Y. That way you know when you put rubber and latches on and adjust Z that it has to fit eventually.
Right is right, even if everyone is against it, and wrong is wrong, even if everyone is for it. - William Penn
| | | | | Joined: Sep 2011 Posts: 2,951 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Sep 2011 Posts: 2,951 | The 1966 C10 I recently bought is in limbo for now. Trying to get a title. Nothing being offered for sale yet.
For one of my 1965 doors, I bought a large size door skin patch. The kind that goes from just below the window to the bottom. I found the fitment to be a fairly straight forward and things line up well enough for me, HOWEVER I found the skin was about 3/16" narrower than the original door. The front and back edges were already creased so I will need to add metal at the front and back edges to make the door gaps look right.
Also, the recess for the door handle was not as deep as the factory one. When I installed the handle, the plunger pin didn't quite reach the latch release mechanism enough to unlatch the door. I had to add length.
My advice is to find some original doors that are decent enough to repair. The hassle I had with mine was more frustration than I want to deal with. I am even considering replacing the one I repaired. | | |
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