The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area The Electrical Bay Wiring from scratch

I am planning to wire my 50, which is restored mostly to original but I want to go to 12V. I read the how to area and conversion looks simple but I wanted to ask if it makes sense for me to switch the regulator, horn relay and the other electrical "boxes" all to 12V from the start or should I stick with the 6V pieces? I have to buy them all, but already have a new 6V wiring harness that was with the truck. Thanks.

You will have to change:

- battery
- voltage regulator
- generator
- light bulbs

You will need a special-type of voltage reducer on the power side of the fuel gauge.

The 1950 truck did not have a horn relay, unless you have the accessory dual horns (6v). That relay will work OK with 12v, as will the 6v horn(s) in a 12v system (but, the horn(s) will be higher pitch and might burn-out if you hold down the horn button for a long time).

Since you indicated you want to go to 12v Tim has given you the correct info. You will also need a new coil or resister and a resister or change the motor in your heater if it is stock. The 6v wiring harness will work fine.

1965t5,

Chuck is correct.

Read carefully the Tech Tip you referred-to in the original post.

http://www.stovebolt.com/techtips/#elec
http://www.stovebolt.com/techtips/12_volt_conversion.html

A working rule of thumb. To get the same "work" at 6 Volts you need 2 times the current. The wire harness for a 6 Volt system has bigger wire than the 12 Volt harness. A 6 Volt wire harness is fine for a 12 Volt conversion. The end items need to be replaced, or have a dropping resistor to save them( Coil, needs a Ballast resistor. Lights, replace. Heater motor, replace or control the current to the speed control. Radio, dropping resistor. Gas gauge, dropping resistor or a voltage regulator.) The starter motor will work at 12 Volts just don't run it for a long time. It will get hot. That is about it.

Note to self: reread the OP. Need a 12 Volt regulator, and 12 Volt relays, and a 12 Volt generator. The horn might not like 12 Volts very much. It will sound different.

Tim, I just ordered the reducer for Classic parts. does it connect to the back of the gas gauge? I notice there are two posts on the back of the gauge but don't know which is which. What do you think? Thanks, Scott

when I converted my 50 DeSoto from 6 to 12v, I did not change any of the motors and ran it that way for years (starter, wipers, heater motor, defroster motor (yes, separate heater and defroster motors). It had trumpet horns on it, and boy howdie, they were LOUD running 12v through them!

Scott,

Yes, the reducer attaches to the back of the fuel/gas gauge.

The reducer goes into the post that is behind "Empty".
The sender wire goes on the post behind "Full".
Do not get it wrong - that would fry the gauge.

You might find a red warning tag on the rear of the gauge (usually it is unreadable or missing).

If you want an OEM look Road Island Wire sells modern thermoplastic insulated wire with a cloth braid. I used them and they were great to work with. Calling them really helped. You can buy by the foot. There are other companies as well. www.riwire.com

1965t: " . . . but already have a new 6V wiring harness that was with the truck. Thanks."