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| | | | Joined: Apr 2003 Posts: 19 Junior Member | | Junior Member Joined: Apr 2003 Posts: 19 | Hello to all, once again I need some help, today I removed passenger side door. Naturally the bottom bolt spun. I was able to get a finger down under the hinge and I felt the caged nut rotating. I ended up grinding off the bolt head so I could remove the door hinge from the cab. I sure could use some idea's on how to repair this, it appears that the caged nuts were spot welded (back side) in place before assembly. The nuts must move horizionally to allow for alignment. Search of pass post did not reveal any answers. Truck is 56 1/2 ton pickup. Thanks Roy | | | | | Joined: Jul 2001 Posts: 3,887 Cruising in the Passing Lane | | Cruising in the Passing Lane Joined: Jul 2001 Posts: 3,887 | Roy - if yer talkin of the ones in the cab hinge pillar, those are a pain - can be replaced w/ regular nut/bolt if you can weasel a custom wrench in there to hold it [from inside w/ the kick panel removed] - the cage nuts don't actually give any positioning adjustment, only allow enuff movement to get the bolt started - other alternative is to weld a nut in, but pretty tuff to do Bill | | | | | Joined: Apr 2003 Posts: 19 Junior Member | | Junior Member Joined: Apr 2003 Posts: 19 | Squeeze, thanks for the reply, guess I'll get the trouch out and bend myself a wrench. Roy | | | | | Joined: Oct 2002 Posts: 96 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Oct 2002 Posts: 96 | I just stuck a vice grip through the rust hole in the other side of the hinge housing (from under the fender) and banged it around until I gave up and cut it off. What, yours didn't come with similar holes? | | | | | Joined: Feb 2000 Posts: 985 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Feb 2000 Posts: 985 | What about drilling a small hole ( or 2 or 3 holes) and while holding the nut in place with a long bolt wire weld the nut through the hole(s)? I would think that the tack welding would hold the nut long enough to get the hinge remounted.
Brian Moore
1949 3100 5 window Deluxe
"Today is better than yesterday, but not as good as tomorrow"
| | | | | Joined: Apr 2003 Posts: 19 Junior Member | | Junior Member Joined: Apr 2003 Posts: 19 | Brian, thanks for the idea of tack welding at the nut in place. I was thinking of welding he nut to a fender washer, drilling some holes and then welding the fender washer in place. It may be more of a permanent fix this way. Roy | | | | | Joined: Sep 2000 Posts: 136 Wrench Fetcher | | Wrench Fetcher Joined: Sep 2000 Posts: 136 | 56- I take a little issue with Squeeze's comment that the caged nuts don't give any adjustment play. They don't give much, but 1/8 inch movement of the nut can translate into a lot around the rear edges of the door. I had a similar situation with my 57, except that the PO had "solved" the problem by removing the cages. Working alone it's tough to hold the heavy door, hold a nut, and thread in the bolt. I fabricated my own cages out of 18 ga sheet metal, and MIG welded them in place. They work just fine. | | |
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