The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area Driveline Fitting 350 in 55'

One of the many projects I in the middle of is a 1955 3/4 ton 3600 long bed pickup. My son and I put a 350 engine in it and mated it to the factory 4-speed trans.
My question is:
I noticed the distributor is extremely close to the firewall if I use the stock trans mounting location.
What have others done to alleviate this situation? I could cut out the firewall and box it out with some sheetmetal...?
But I feel as though there is most likely a better solution?
Brian

Most engine swappers just massage the firewall with a BFH, but a somewhat more appropriate method would be to trim a small section of firewall away and weld in a semi-circular patch with enough clearance to keep the distributor out of harm's way.

If you want to create clearance for a really big engine, cut out a BIG chunk of firewall and replace it with a piece of the tub of a wheelbarrow. The complex curves are already formed for you.
Jerry

...I'd think the 350 would fit pretty good. Can you leave the engine "forward" and put in a new rear mount?? Which is easier??
Since its already a 4 speed little modification is all that would be needed.
As long as you can cup your hand around the distributor you should be OK.

Chipmunk-
I appreciate everyone's advice.
I can barely fit my pointer finger between firewall and dist. Cap.
I will prob end up cutting firewall out around dist. And forming some sheetmetal to fit.
Brian

Should have mocked it up for clearance? before final motor mounts. You can get by with a performance dizzy, they are smaller in diameter. If you have 1/2" now it should be OK, if motor mounts are new. I don't know if you have a 55.1 or 55.2. 55.2's with SBC's are done all the time. There is plenty of room to install with no BFH'ing. A 265 was available in 55.2. Maybe you were focused on no driveshaft length mod or tranny mount mod. Hard to dent it with the motor in there but a pipe with a pipe cap on the end, hit with BFH, may work (dizzy removed of course). Lotsa ways I guess.

Remove the carburetor and the distributor. Bolt a piece of 3X3 inch angle iron onto the carb flange, and use a 10 ton porto-power to push the firewall back. It's best to use a piece of 1/4" plate bolted to all 4 carb studs, and weld the angle iron to the middle of it to spread the push to all the carb studs.
Jerry

Hy Brian_Ostner, my first question is which "55" are we talking about 55A or 55B? My second question is, are we talking about a point type distributor or an H.E.I.? The 55B could be purchased with a V8 from the factory and a point type distributor has sufficient clearance at the firewall, an H.E.I. distributor will not clear the firewall in the 55B through 59 trucks.

Brian posted this in 2014:
"apbmalibu,
I was following your thread about the headers with column shift and the discussion created a few questions of my own. I replaced my inline 235 with a 350 small block. I retained the factory 4 speed manual trans. The trans bellhousing and factory crossmember dictate where the engine falls in the engine bay front to back. I also cannot fit a HEI distributor between the firewall and engine.

I do however intend on swapping out the trans for a SM465 with a NP 205 transfer case. I already have dana 60's for the diffs. Since the adaptor between the transfer and transmission has a mounting pad integrated in it, I will be able to fabricate my own new cross member for the trans.
Now, since I can locate the new x-member anywhere I want, (within reason), couldn't I move the engine/trans assembly forward a touch to allow me use the HEI? What do you think about this idea, forsee any problems with it? Thank you, I did not intend to hijack your thread. Brian."

As I said you have to mock it up. As we have said, it should have fit anyway with points or smaller dizzy. We don't know where you are on this build? Done? Still mocking up? Doing the 4X4? Already tried a smaller Dizzy? Agree that 1/2" (your finger) is OK? I would want to know if Jerry thinks 1/2" is OK. I don't think motor will buck that much and I assume clearance problem is more straight back that at sides of factory firewall cavity.
I have installed modern 4X4 w/NP205 454/TH350 in Task force. No BFH.

Engines (and cabs, and frames) do a lot more moving around than most of us realize. With the right combination of torque, road surface, trailer pulling, and/or panic braking, it wouldn't surprise me to see a broken distributor cap with only 1/2" of clearance. I've seen dirt track cars with a well-braced roll cage get enough frame twist off a corner to lift the left front wheel a couple of inches off the ground when the driver nails the throttle. I'd be a lot more comfortable with 1" of clearance or a bit more.
Jerry

Fellow bolters,
As with many of your trucks, cars, tractors etc, this is a long term project that only gets my attention as time and funds permit..
I apologize if frequent posts or weekly progress on my truck is a pre-requisite to be a member here?
I have not permanently mounted engine as of yet, I understand the importance of mocking up the driveline...( I should mention it is a 55.2)


I want to get the engine forward a little further to allow for some more clearance on the HEI dist.cap. I think I am gonna just order factory front engine mohnts for the v8 and use the factory trans mount....

Have also decided to go with a divorced transfer case to help with driveshaft angles.
Brian

As far as becoming and remaining a member here, all you need to do is remember the secret handshake. (If you have forgotten the handshake, send me a PM, I accept PayPal).
You are on the right track with using the original V8 mounts. When you mock it up, check the HEI clearance. If it is too close, consider switching to the small diameter HEI.
Carl