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Hi bolters. Im just getting all the info on diesel swaps how many of the bolsters have done this. Who had to rebuild steering columns for engine

In the words of my late father- - - -"Diesels are like sex- - - -highly overrated and stinky!" It would help to know what chassis you're planning to swap into, and what engine you're considering. In general, Diesels are heavy, hard to start in the winter, noisy, and they have a limited effective RPM range so they need a lot of gears.

I have a 120 HP inline 6 Onan/Cummins turbo Diesel that's a little bigger and heavier than a 235 which I'm planning to install in a late 1980's Ford F-350 flatbed. It was used by UPS some years ago, and when Cummins couldn't supply a sufficient number of spares to meet the demand, UPS retrofitted their trucks for another engine. It's somewhat smaller than the Dodge/Cummins engine. This one develops its max HP at 3600 RPM, so I shouldn't have to do any major gear ratio changes.

Earlier designs like the 53 series 2-stroke Detroit engines are horrendously heavy, very noisy because of the screaming blower, and they only have a 400 RPM effective power band (1750-2150). That requires at least 8 and preferably 10 or more forward gears to stay in the power band. Not a good choice, IMHO.
Jerry

I have a 130 horse Cummins 4BTAA in my '46 Chevy Skoolie. And yeah...the whole steering from the wheel to the steering arm had to be replaced onto the outside of the frame to make room for the engine. I am adapting an Isuzu NPR power steering gearbox as we speak. Fairly involved.

I replaced the 259 gasser in my '37 GMC 2 ton, replaced the steering box and running gear with GMC P3500 HD axles, Saginaw box and hydroboost brake. Retained original steering wheel, mast and shaft through firewall. Put Saginaw box outside frame, in front of axle. RR-10 speed main box plus 3 speed Brownie. Works well.

One might look on '4btswaps'.com for diesel info.

I have a 4-53T Detroit in my 2 ton, used IH Scout II steering gear box outside the frame, later model axle, different type steering linkage, and original steering column.
I've contemplated a 3-53T swap in an AD truck and using the blower on the passengers side I think the original steering box can stay just as it is. This would also likely work with a 4-53 and passenger side blower.

Grigg

I rebuilt mine with a 1970's 4x4 Dodge Saginaw (reverse rotation of the gm style saginaw box.) and 1996 p30 Ibeam front. Fabricated a bracket to fasten to in front of the axle, still using the same geometry as the original steering setup, and kept the original steering column.

I've dropped a pumped up 7.3 I had into a 49 6400. With IFS front suspension from older motor home.the 7.3 required less cab modification than my original plan of a 5.9 and I had the wrecked 7.3.currently im studying my steering problem the valve cover is in the way of stock path so I'm working on mbuilding a steering column for it. Just trying to get a little in put.

Can you get around the valve covers by using an offset, segmented shaft? There are tons of hot rod parts available that you should be able to adapt including u-joints and flanged support bearings. As long as you don't go beyond about 30 degrees on any segment, you should be OK.

That is exactly what I am having to do on mine.

We recently rebuild a 4BT here and stuck it in an F150 (gasp.) It dyno'd at 400/700tq with a cam, retimed pump, and lots of boost. Keep in mind they are a low rpm motor, and you'd be putting it into a low geared truck. Unless you're doing an overdrive and a different differential, it won't be very beneficial unless you want to stay under 45 mph.

Tango that's my plan but I also need to exit my cb about 4 inches over so I'm outside of the frame to clear the width of the motor since it's 4 inches back into the fire wall.

This sort of offset steering gear box thingy is available.
http://www.wizardsteerclear.com/store.html

Only 4" back? Mine is closer to 24"! My old dash is now my new firewall. Fabbing a small doghouse as we speak.

Had fits finding the splined section of steering column I needed to extend it. Be forewarned...Isuzu NPR power steering systems are great...but the components are outrageously expensive and really hard to find. Go with something that is more common. I am already too committed to swap what I have now. Lesson learned.

Below are a couple of pix...

[img]https://farm9.staticflickr.com/8653/16601904821_ae6d824e2e.jpg[/img]

[img]https://farm1.staticflickr.com/781/21665225965_cce3b2eb6a.jpg[/img]

[img]https://farm1.staticflickr.com/305/18148686043_def63cb860.jpg[/img]

Thanks to all for the input. I think I'm on the right path. But time and trial will tell.Grigg I think the steering offset will solve my problem just not sure of reliability. I have had to move the gear box so far forward due to the size of the 7.3. And the p-30 ifs that I'm experimenting with to install. I have searched everywhere gathering all the opinions and pics of other people's ifs.

Tango , I like your work. What is the frame difference on the front of your 46 to a 49?

Diesel what was the length of the engine you installed?

Grigg same question what was the length of yours. I ask this to to help answer my questions of radiator. 7…3 is 36 approx. I will need to raise the engine above the frame at an angle for trans and rear ended to appropriate angle. And probably a front fan mounted electric. To avoid a lot cab mods.

It's hard to give an engine length because they're not cubes, they have fans, pulleys, bell housings, and other accessories. Also V and inline engines differ in shape, how they fit in and around things.
Then engine compartment is not a cube and has varoius obstructions and shape to it.

Your engine, engine compartment, and tape measure will give the bet answer of fit and how.

My 4-53T is 30 inches from clutch housing to radiator, not including electric fan, lots of room for fan. Firewall to radiator on '37 GMC(T-18 HD) is 40", that is why I Decided on T-18 plus adequate legroom, T-16 and smaller are for midgets.

A 6BT would fit in there, not in my plans,however.

Thanks Chuck. I am not familiar with the '49 frame but would guess that it is probably a bit wider than my '46. The war & pre-war models all have a tapered frame and front end that narrows down quite a bit. It was a really tight squeeze. That is why my engine is set so far back. But...that does make room for all the cooling components like the rad, CAC, tranny cooler and A/C.