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#1137545 12/03/2015 12:26 AM
Joined: Sep 2015
Posts: 13
C
New Guy
New Guy
C Offline
Joined: Sep 2015
Posts: 13
I bought new shackle bolts for the fixed end of the front leaf springs. The shackle bolt is slightly larger and the threads are not that same as what I pulled out. Has anyone just drilled out the existing holes to a larger size and removed the old threads? First picture arrow represents front of vehicle.

https://drive.google.com/open?id=0B57Cq4IaK0lDcE5OdGhGR0hUWTg

Second picture with leaf removed the inside hole is currently threaded on my hangers.

https://drive.google.com/open?id=0B57Cq4IaK0lDd1Z1aGRvWFg2aDg

I want to open the holes up slightly and fit the new shackle bolt. The inside hole would no longer be tapped.

Thoughts?



Last edited by CycloneWade; 12/03/2015 12:44 AM.
Joined: Mar 2010
Posts: 10,275
5
Renaissance Man
Renaissance Man
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Joined: Mar 2010
Posts: 10,275
Did you replace the bushings?
How did you accomplish this task?
Sometimes those bushings are tough to press in, especially if the spring eye is not spotlessly clean and smooth.
This can result in deforming the bushing causing the inside diameter (where the bolt goes) to be too small.
Carl


1952 5-window - return to "as built" condition | 1950 3100 with a 235 and a T-5 transmission
Joined: Sep 2015
Posts: 13
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New Guy
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Joined: Sep 2015
Posts: 13
Carl,

Oh man, you are telling me there bushings pressed in the hangers. The red components in the link below.

https://drive.google.com/open?id=0B57Cq4IaK0lDbF9jNV9IWGxiQUE

That presents a different issue I guess. The bolt fits thru the near side but the threads in the far side definitely do not match. LMC sells a spring eye bushing but the picture shows it as a long bushing which I assumed it was the bushing that goes in the spring. Perhaps it's suppose to replace the existing red bushings that are shown in the picture.

W

Joined: Feb 2000
Posts: 5,208
J
'Bolter
'Bolter
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Posts: 5,208
You did not mention the year of the truck. My '37 has the same type of hangers and bolts. I have the springs off now so I was just under the truck. The hanger is threaded, no replacement parts on the hanger itself. The bushing is pressed into the leaf spring. I don't really understand the reason behind the threaded hanger, maybe to keep the bolt from spinning? The outer nut and washer just lock the bolt in place.
I would hunt for the correct bolt and nut, drilling would be a last resort.

Joe

Joined: Sep 2015
Posts: 13
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New Guy
New Guy
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Joined: Sep 2015
Posts: 13
The truck is '51 3/4 ton. I'm replacing the 3/4 ton axle with leaf springs and axle from a 1/2 ton version. LMC list the same bolt for 1/2 and 3/4 ton but it is clearly not the same threads as what came out. I had to cut out the old bolt as it wouldn't budge with impact driver after heat and Kroil.

Joined: Jul 2014
Posts: 34
J
Wrench Fetcher
Wrench Fetcher
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Joined: Jul 2014
Posts: 34
Im just doing the same as you, i think you have the wrong threaded bolts.
As has been said there is no bushing in the hanger itself, only a bushing with internal threads (for the shackle end) for the bolt, the bushing presses into the spring eye.
Unless as 52carl has said the bush has been deformed when being pressed in?

Are you trying to use the shackle bolt for the fixed hanger end??

Last edited by jonnyenglish; 12/03/2015 5:13 PM.
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New Guy
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Posts: 13
There are two types of bolts for the front leafs. The front of the leaf spring uses fully threaded shackle bolt and a threaded bushing that goes into the leaf. The back "Fixed" end uses a none threaded bushing in the leaf spring with a shackle bolt that is only threaded near the end of the bolt. I had to cut this bolt out as it wouldn't come out with a impact driver. The bushing in my leafs are fine and not obround. Be aware if you do buy replacement shackle bolts for the fixed end the threads are not the same and this matters because the hanger bracket is threaded.

Joined: Dec 2014
Posts: 66
M
'Bolter
'Bolter
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Joined: Dec 2014
Posts: 66
This past spring I rebuilt the front end of my '59 1/2 ton, got the bushings, pivot bolt, etc. from LMC too, but everything on mine went together easy as pie. The threads matched up, no filing, drilling, and so on needed.
I don't think I would drill it out. I'll call LMC and talk to somebody there, laying out what you have going on, what part numbers you have in hand, that sort of thing, good luck.


'59 Apache
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D
'Bolter
'Bolter
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Posts: 9,671
The problem I had with the replacement rear bolts
was they were turned a few tenths to large and had
to be taken down in the lathe to fit the bracket bore.
http://www.pbase.com/dennygraham/image/122103083

Then there was the poor machine work on the reproduction bolt.
Just below the head the shank looked like they had pulled
the tool bit out before it reached the end of the cut and
left a taper for about an 1/8". This would not allow the
bolt to seat properly. Took care of that in the lathe also.
http://www.pbase.com/dennygraham/image/122103104

Denny Graham
Sandwich, IL


Denny G
Sandwich, IL

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