The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area Driveline How do you remove the Drag Link

This is for a 1953 GMC 1-ton truck. I've read the service manual and searched on here and I don't see it spelled out - how do you remove the drag link from the pitman arm to adjust the steering lash?

steering links pulling tools

more tools

I got this one at half price - worked OK on my trucks

The Pitman arm can stay attached- - - -just remove the big slotted plug at the end of the drag link with a socket designed for the task, and disassemble and inspect the internal parts and the ball at the end of the Pitman arm. There should be a couple of hemispherical pieces that clamp around the ball, and a heavy spring. To reassemble, tighten the plug down until it bottoms out, and back it up until a cotter pin can be inserted into the slot through one of the holes in the drag link. It shouldn't take much backing off, as there are several holes to pick from.

http://www.matcotools.com/ProductImages/b22dl.jpg

Jerry

Perfect - thank you

Well mine is shot. Is there a method to rebuild it?

So, the steering gear can't be adjusted, right? I believe repair parts are available. One of the antique parts vendors might have them in stock, or you might find some NOS parts somewhere like Hemmings' Motor News. Try a post in the "parts wanted" forum- - - -some of the hotrodders who have converted to a different steering system might have a good steering gear cluttering up their junk pile.
Jerry

Here is a filmstrip on the rebuild and adjustments.
https://www.flickr.com/photos/advance-design_parts_co/sets/72157632210242370

My apologies I meant the drag link itself. When you turn the steering wheel and watch the drag link it is loose on both ends.

Here is a link to the manual instructions on the drag link. Note the diagram. Drag Link in Manual You can see all the pieces there. You may find the balls on your arms egg shaped. If that is so they can be replaced.

That's why the plug is threaded. Turn it in until it's tight, then back off a little. As long as the two halves of the coupling aren't worn to the point they butt together, just take out the slack, after doing a thorough cleanup and inspection. All the pieces are replaceable, as well, even the ball at both ends, although changing the balls involves some sweat and cusswords. A good master mechanic should be able to use profanity in at least three languages for fifteen minutes without repeating himself.

NAPA drag link repair kit:

http://i.ebayimg.com/images/g/gpsAAOSw5VFWN4Wq/s-l400.jpg

Jerry

You guys are much appreciated - you all make working on this old truck a lot better

The plugs in the ends of the link just doesn't come out if the components haven't been serviced regularly. I had to bath mine in liquid wench and work at for a long while. Time and and neglect act as really good bonding agent.

Kroil (www.kanolabs.com) and a Propane torch work very well as an "un-bonding" agent. Don't be afraid to use a little carefully-applied heat to get some of these old parts moving.
Jerry

Mine is rusted together pretty bad. My ball ends are egg-shaped too.

Jerry - I was reading the tech article about making the adjustable drag link ( http://www.stovebolt.com/techtips/draglink_adjustable.html ) - if I were to do this do I need to take my pitman arm and steering arm to a machine shop to make these ends fit?

Unless you have some experience removing the ball pieces from the Pitman arm and steering arm and taper-reaming the hole for the new type tie rod ends, a machine shop might be a good idea. The straight-shank ball is peened into position, and it takes a bit of experience at drilling and grinding away the peened-over end and pressing the ball out to do it successfully. A few people have documented a very frustrating process, even with a big hydraulic press, when trying to remove the balls. The trick is to drill away a bit of the steering arm that has a chamfer for the ball shank to lock into. Once the ball is removed, a tapered reamer is used to prepare the hole for the new tie rod end.
Jerry

The other idea I have is to use heim joints... Heim joint . Opinions on this?

My thinking is - the idea of having the adjustable drag link without spring-loaded cups seems good. No matter what this strikes me as a decent amount of work to get the ball shanks out, so once that is accomplished why not go an extra step.

I thought that the vendors had replacement ends which are secured by a nut and the shank was not tapered so that taper reaming was unnecessary. The only challenge was removing the peened end of the old one to remove it.
Carl
Patiently waiting for Tim to reply with a "Like these, Carl/" pic post.

Something like these maybe ? Classic Parts Tie Rod Ends I wonder if the diameter is the same for the studs on these as the shank opening on the steering/pitman arms.

Is this discussion about 1 ton or 1/2 ton (tie rod ends and drag link) - 1953 GMC 1 ton?

My truck is titled as a 1953 GMC, and is a 1-ton, but it has 1952 suspension for whatever reason. So it has the drag link with the slotted endcaps and spring/cups.

My old drag link

That picture doesn't do it justice. It was worn so bad that the edges were basically filed sharp by the tapered ball shank. The other end I had to completely grind off because it was all rusted frozen solid.

So I'm building a custom new one that will be adjustable. I removed the old ball shanks by grinding off the tops and pressing them out. It went a lot better than I thought it would. Now I ordered These ends to build the new link. The stud shafts are too small so I need to take my steering arm and pitman arm to a machine shop to have them fit to the new ends.

New drag link end 1

New End 2

I have now installed proper size bushings in each end. The new tie-rod ends I am using for the drag link have a stud diameter of 0.53". Then I pressed in the new non-tapered tie rod ends. I ordered the bushings and the all-thread from MSC Industrial. FAST service!

I should mention that I was unable to find a machine shop who would work on parts for the old truck. Too much liability to do steering they all said. So that is why I DIY.

All-thread in a steering system? I believe I'd re-think that choice a little, or increase my life insurance coverage! Most people use tie rod ends long enough to splice together with a turnbuckle sleeve used in regular steering systems, one with a left hand thread so the length of the drag link can be adjusted to center point the steering gear.
Jerry

Its not regular steel. I call it all-thread for lack of a better term.

Jerry I took your advice and this is what I ended up using for the rod... Grade 8 Rod and had a friend of mine who is certified weld it all together to be safe.

Sounds like a plan! After many years of campaigning dirt track race cars, I'm still amazed at the stresses steering system components bear, and how easily things can bend. One unnoticed pothole can make life "interesting" if you hit it at the wrong speed.
Jerry