The Stovebolt.com Forums Home | Tech Tips | Gallery | FAQ | Events | Features | Search
Help is a click away!

VEHICLE
INFORMATION
KITS


at the

GM Heritage Center
All the details are here.

Searching the Site - a click away
click here to search
New here ??? Where to start?
Click on image for the lowdown. Where do I go around here?
====
Who's Online Now
7 members (TexasA&M48Truck, Bill Hanlon, Shade Baby, Nhluvstruck, Brian Moore, Wally / Montana, 1 invisible), 227 guests, and 2 robots.
Key: Admin, Global Mod, Mod
Forum Statistics
Forums66
Topics128,087
Posts1,055,985
Members48,430
Most Online14,466
Apr 26th, 2026
Step-by-step instructions for pictures in the forums
Brad Allen's photos

AD Chevy Trucks

Pictures galore
Over 6,000 pictures

Brad Allen has an awesome collection of Chevrolet factory pictures that he has set up from film strips.

Check them out!

Lots of work on Brad's part ... pure enjoyment (and references) for you!

Big Thanks!

THANKS!

For helping keep this great
old truck web site
on the Internet for

over 30 years!

and not clogged down
with Ads!


Again, thanks!

Previous Thread
Next Thread
Print Thread
#1135450 11/21/2015 4:49 PM
Joined: Jul 2014
Posts: 34
J
Wrench Fetcher
Wrench Fetcher
J Offline
Joined: Jul 2014
Posts: 34
Im in the proces of rebuilding my '49 1/2 ton steering box with a rebuild kit from Jim Carter.

The instructions that come with it do not include anything about bushing replacement.

Ive searched on here and found a good thread with alternative instructions, which helps.

But I still am unsure on something.

What is the replacement part for packing and retainer for the pitman arm bushing:

Can anyone confirm that the packing and retainer for pitman arm shaft bushing is not two separate pieces (unlike the original which is 2 pieces).. the only part which looks right is a green coloured ring.

There is also a larger metal ring with a tapered inside that i do not know where its for. At first i thought it was the retainer for the packing but its far too big for that.

Hope someone understands what im talking about?

Thanks

Last edited by jonnyenglish; 11/21/2015 4:50 PM.
Joined: Feb 2000
Posts: 5,210
J
'Bolter
'Bolter
J Offline
Joined: Feb 2000
Posts: 5,210
Have you read this manual, your gear box will very similar.
https://www.flickr.com/photos/advance-design_parts_co/sets/72157632210242370/

The packing and retainer can be replaced with a simple seal from a newer GM manual steering box. This is the seal, you may find it local as well as it was used for a lot of cars and trucks. http://www.ebay.com/itm/SKF-11055-Steering-Gear-Seal-/170840391774

The original seal was a felt like material with a steel cup to hold it in place, see manual above.

Joined: Jul 2014
Posts: 34
J
Wrench Fetcher
Wrench Fetcher
J Offline
Joined: Jul 2014
Posts: 34
Hi Joe, Thanks, that confirms that the seal replaces both parts the packing and retainer.

I had seen the link you posted and yes it is a good link thankyou.

I still have a part that im unsure of its location?

It looks to me like a roller bearing retainer as it has a tapered inner part that a bearing could sit in.


Joined: Feb 2000
Posts: 5,210
J
'Bolter
'Bolter
J Offline
Joined: Feb 2000
Posts: 5,210
Look at page 18 in the manual above, it shows a collar that is held on with a rivet, is this what you have?

Joe

Joined: Jul 2014
Posts: 34
J
Wrench Fetcher
Wrench Fetcher
J Offline
Joined: Jul 2014
Posts: 34
Hi again Joe, thanks for helping out.

No its not the riveted on collar. Il try and attach a couple of photos.

Here goes.

photobucket

photobucket


I wonder if the other trucks have a slightly different box - in the link you gave pics 13 and 14, i wonder if some use a bearing retainer (the part ive got in the rebuild kit) which retains the lower worm bearing, but maybe i dont need it as as the worm bearing adjuster on mine seats against the lower worm bearing?

Last edited by jonnyenglish; 11/22/2015 5:33 PM.
Joined: Feb 2000
Posts: 5,210
J
'Bolter
'Bolter
J Offline
Joined: Feb 2000
Posts: 5,210
That is the top bearing race for the worm gear. Its pressed into the top of the cast iron housing. The lower race is part of the large adjusting nut. Look up in the housing and you will see the race. If it looks good I would leave it, they are a little hard to get out. Picture 26 -28 in manual.

Joe

Joined: Jan 2001
Posts: 5,337
P
'Bolter
'Bolter
P Offline
Joined: Jan 2001
Posts: 5,337
If you do need to replace the upper race, the easiest way I have found to remove it is to run a bead of weld around the face. When it cools the weld will contract allowing the race to almost fall out.


See the USA in your vintage Chevrolet!
My Blog
Joined: Mar 2010
Posts: 10,275
5
Renaissance Man
Renaissance Man
5 Offline
Joined: Mar 2010
Posts: 10,275
Cool tip Dave! I have forgotten that tip more times than I have heard about it.


1952 5-window - return to "as built" condition | 1950 3100 with a 235 and a T-5 transmission
Joined: Jul 2014
Posts: 34
J
Wrench Fetcher
Wrench Fetcher
J Offline
Joined: Jul 2014
Posts: 34
Thanks guys, thats a great help. I can carry on now.


Moderated by  Dusty53, SWEET 

Link Copied to Clipboard
Home | FAQ | Gallery | Tech Tips | Events | Features | Search | Hoo-Ya Shop
Powered by UBB.threads™ PHP Forum Software 8.0.0