The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area Engine Shop Stand to engine

Hi everyone. I am trying to mount the engine stand to the engine, and this is the only way that would work. (Will this be stable enough? The bolts aren't all the way in and I need to get spacers)

http://i300.photobucket.com/albums/nn5/Bryce_Sheedy/Mobile%20Uploads/image_zpssqgfqnlf.jpg

That scares me- - - -try bolting a piece of 3/8" X 2" flat stock to the upper holes and extending the upper mounting arms out a couple of inches past the block for a more stable footprint for the stand adapter. You'll need to stack up a few flat washers between the lower arms and the block to keep everything leveled out.
Jerry

If you have room, move the four arms on the stand to the back side of the mounting plate. This way all the weight will be pulling on the plate and bolts. My stand has long bolts and tubes so I can mount most engines this way. To me it seems much better.
Joe

Thanks for the help. I have found this way works. Is it alright to not use the upper stand arms?

http://i300.photobucket.com/albums/nn5/Bryce_Sheedy/Mobile%20Uploads/image_zpsem4t4bgd.jpg

It will be OK until you flip the engine over, then not so much.
Carl

The engine will be top-heavy. Be very careful when you try to turn it with the cylinder head to the down position. Use something thick and heavy like 3/4" pipe couplings as spacers between the stand plate and the back of the block. Does the front of the stand extend past the front of the crankshaft? Stovebolt engines have a nasty habit of tipping engine stands over, and crushing/amputating toes in the process!
Jerry

Cut a couple pieces of pipe (1/2 or 3/4) to fit between the block and the plate and use washers on the bottom between the arms and the block.
The mounting bolts have to be tightened up tight to make it safe to use.

I couldn't get my stand mounts to matchup to the 235's bolt pattern so I used a flat bar to adapt it. It made for a more stable platform as I needed to spin the engine in various stages of assembly and once you get the head on it is VERY top heavy.
You want all 4 mounting points tightened completely. I used flat washers to get the spacing correct.

Pic
Pic

I intend to tear down the 216 in my 38 soon. So where should the pivot point be placed in this setup. I am probably most interested in turning the block once the head is off.

The right way to do it is to go to alot of trouble like the one that Greg_H posted in the Engine Run Stand Plans thread.

or this:

http://devestechnet.com/Home/Project1959235#postengineshop

Once you make or purchase that one, you will have it for next time. I think Marshall sells them.

Deve, I'm glad I stopped to read this thread. I will have to pull my engine one day and I had a heck of a time last time it was on the stand. I can see now what to do to improve my stand, well my plate that holds the engine to the stand. Thank you for the post and the link. I really like that. It's worth the time to do it. Thanks, Steven

Would this one work? http://www.marshallsince62.com

That's a nice adapter. Looks like you'll have to install the rear cam plug with the engine off stand as it looks like the curved mounting arms will block access, otherwise it looks well made and stout.

Dave

I had to make mine because the diameter of the receiver is too large on the newer HF engine stands. If you have the old style, that one is ready to use. Not sure if he makes one for the new style yet.

Deve...talk for a moment about your welding/setup bench. Looks to be a piece of 1/2" plate, but how did you get the slots in it? They look like they were machined in a mill.
http://devestechnet.com/Images/Projects/Project1959235/Project59235509lg.jpg
dg

After looking at a lot of welding tables on the WeldingWeb forums, I wanted to incorporate the features I like from all of them.

1) I do not want my table to move AT ALL. So I bolted it to the floor. Using concrete anchors and bolts with a heavy cork/rubber pad in between for sound damping.

2) Everything is made with 2 inch square tubing with 3/16" walls. This is notable because the six legs are open at the table top. Then I can put a 1-1/2" telescoping piece down each leg. This is extremely useful! By making a 3/8" by 10 inch or so platform with the 1-1/2" shaft welded to the center, I now have platforms to mount bench grinders, Beverly Shears, Vises, PortaBand Saw, Drycut Saw, Dremel Drill Press, Rollers, HVLP Gun Holders, Helpers of every kind in ANY of the six holes in the table, and in any receiver hole on any other table. With 2 1/2" bolts on two sides of the 2 inch just under the table top, I can tighten down those tools so they are secure.

http://devestechnet.com/Images/Restorations/1950B/D50b02059lg.jpg
http://devestechnet.com/Images/Restorations/1950B/D50b02057lg.jpg
http://devestechnet.com/Images/Restorations/1950B/D50b02058lg.jpg
http://devestechnet.com/Images/Restorations/1950B/D50b02005lg.jpg
http://devestechnet.com/Images/Restorations/1950B/D50b02033lg.jpg

3) The Table Top is as Denny mentioned 1/2 inch. It's 30 deep by 60 long with 30 inches used for a nice smooth flat surface. The other 30 inches has 1/2" slots with a 3/4 inch round on one end. This is for clamping things securely to the table using all kinds of clamps. For small stuff you can use those HF Vise Grip Style Drill Press Clamps, 3/4" Pipe Clamps, etc. This helps me ensure the work is perfectly square when done.

To build this table I took a piece of 1/8" tempered masonite and measured it all out, then drilled and shaped everything. I then took the masonite template to my local welding shop who has a plasma table. They input the table top in the computer and then used the computer controlled precision Plasma table to cut it out. I welded the rest up myself. Plasma is precision enough for my purposes, but the next time I will tell them to run it on the Waterjet. Once it's in the computer, the cost is pretty minimal. The first time cost me $200 but after its in the computer, I can expect a lot less. The next time I do it, I will put the entire project into their preferred computer CAD software called DraftSight, make whatever changes I can think of (so far none) and then have them cut it out of 3/4". 1/2 is fine but a deeper measure of security knowing 3/4 is harder to bend maybe. So far I haven't bent the 1/2 inch at all, but it's on my mind.

http://devestechnet.com/Home/MorePix

In the link above is lots of places where I use this receiver concept. The SuperJig features that, so do the rest of my tables, stands, even light fixtures that are pushed into the receivers in the walls and then easily removed and stowed away.

Shop fixtures, jigs, tables, etc is one of my favorite subjects!
Was that a 'moment'?

I love that bench Deve. The only thing I would do differently is mount the shelf part on the wall and rig a couple bottle jacks and very sturdy wheels so I could jack the wheels down and move it away from the wall to take advantage of that weight for big projects. I always find myself working on the floor with these projects. The other thing would be some sort of drawer slide out with vertical slats as a cutting table for the torch or plasma. I don't know how you keep the top so clean and smooth. Mine has loads of slag make it tough when need a flat surface.

Many of the contributions at WeldingWeb were movable. This was necessary for most. I have a 10 foot table on the other wall that has 6 wheels and is easily movable and not as tall for those kinds of projects. I had a very nice Plasma and got rid of it. The reason I did was the amount of smoke and soot it creates and that is not a good idea in my shop. I find other ways to cut things or take the Torch outside. It's not ideal, but I have a welding shop down the street that does the heavy lifting.

The top gets cleaned after every welding job. I use thick paint scraper and scrape all the slag off then use Simply Green to wipe it down a few times a week. Like all of my steel countertops, I keep the mill scale in tact as much as possible to protect the surface. I have plans to put a drawer on the non clamping side. The reason for the 10 foot by 8 foot sheet of galv is to manage the slag problem. Seems to work.