The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area Paint and Body Shop Cowl Vent

I have a 1953 3800. I need to know if the cowl vent(the vent in front of the windshield) is supposed to have a gasket.

Mine was calked shut and I have it cleaned-up and working but need to know if it had a gasket. I know the water that does get in is supposed to catch in the tray and drain out the tube in the firewall. Thanks. DK

DK-

Sounds like you got the right idea. The gasket will help with a tight closed seal and any water should "gutter" out through the tubing and head to the firewall.

I love the cowl vent, although many rodders fill them in. They really work and add a great low-tech, yesteryear feature to any AD truck.

I replaced my old gasket with a new gasket. Got it from Chevy Duty and worked like a champ and fit like a glove. I love the Vent it works great cooling me off cruising down the road.

So to answer the question, yes it needs a gasket.

I love mine, too! It REALLY adds to a nice ride, with the air moving all through the cab -- it's wonderful!

I bought a new one from Chevy Duty and glued it in place. They sell two types for 1947 - 1953:
sponge / $3.50 / #34-011
or
molded / $10 / #34-012

1-800-741-1678

Hi,
I got mine from chevy duty too! And it does work like a champ! I sometime have to take my sandals of to feel the air!

behind my cowl vent is rusted thru. the area between the windshield and vent.
does any one know how to repair this?

my cab has the same problem im going to sand blast the outside to bare metal then put a thin layer of fiberglas over the whole front area and leave the weather striping out the vent will be covered so it will be gone thenn i will blast under the dash to remove most rust and paint with a rust sealing paint when a cab gets this bad its called the kiss of death but fixed this way it will last 10 or 15 years by then ill find a better cab or be tiered of the truck only other fix is a defferent cab

Chaz - you can repair that area several ways. Cut it out and make a new panel yourself (best way), tack some new metal to the bottom surface and fill in the top with JB weld (will work) or fiberglass the bottom and body filler on the top (make leak later).

Chaz, if you post an ad in the "parts wanted" section of the swap meet (separate registration required), you should have several parts guys who have what you need. Before patching that section, you should check out the rest of the cab - it sounds like you might have a lot of rust, and it can be cheaper to find a less rusty cab than to repair one that looks like swiss cheese.