The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area Engine Shop IDEAS NEEDED Someone has to have done this

Hey guys been a long time since i last posted. new job and finally got time to work on my 52. I have a fenton intake for dual carbs I want to install but as i look at the original intake and the new intake it looks like the fenton intake will rub up against my shifter levers.
Any thoughts??
Paul

Some people have ground down a clearance on intake manifolds and some have bent the interfering shifting lever from the shift box to gain clearance.

Ok Thanks
I was going to try and rotate shift lever collar around and readjust the shift levers. I will let you know how it turns out.

OK I give up SOS NEED HELP!!
I have the headers in place new intake in place NO WAY are the shifter levers going to clear the intake.
Some one said shave the intake for clearance i need 1/2 inch.
would cutting the shifter lever and drilling a new hole work. the rod from trans would be at a different angle but will it work??
Paul

Hang in there Paul.. there are others who have had this problem and resolved it. Perhaps reposting in the HiPo forum just to be sure its being read by the right people? I have a friend who is almost losing it over Fenton Dual Exhaust manifolds. I tell him to take a deep breath and just give it time. Hes doing great! You will too.

Task Force shifter boxes have levers bent in such a way as to avoid contact with their engines, and I believe they are a direct bolt-in on AD trucks.
Carl

That's only on the V8 trucks. 6 cylinder trucks are straight.

We have shortened and lengthened shift levers for whatever reason. Works okay but to keep things moving the same amount move the hole in the lever on the trans the same amount as the one on the column. Be sure to move the brake and clutch pedal through it's full stroke to verify clearance.

Changing the radius of the arms (shortening) will result in a longer travel of the knob to complete the shift unless you do a corresponding shortening of the levers at the side of the transmission. Rather than re-drilling holes I'd want a VERY good welder to cut a short piece out of the shift arms and weld them back together. The geometry of the column shifter is pretty critical, so "Measure twice/cut once!"
Jerry

Interesting, this is the first time in the ten years that I've
been on the forum that I've heard that installing Fenton
headers caused a problem with the shift levers. Surprising
since the shifter box is about 7" away from the outside of
the header.

dg

Fenton dual carb intake

Not the headers it's the intake. Header clearance is fine

As HRL stated simply shortening the arms will pollute the geometry/shifter throw. I made several attempts cutting, splicing and tacking the arms until I was happy with the shifting but it can be done with patience. Here's how I solved the issue and good luck with yours.


P.S.....Denny, he's talking about intake not exhaust.

The offset shift arms are a good idea. As long as the center-to-center distance of the pivot holes doesn't change the geometry will be about right.
Jerry

When I installed a '66 Saginaw 3 speed in my '50, I had to do some creative modifications to account for the different location of the shifter arms on the transmission.
It resulted in creating a geometry issue, which at first, I was not happy with. It caused the throw of the 1-2 shift to be short throw, while the 3-R remained correct.
It created no issues in shifting, and in fact helped me to better determine when I was in first gear rather than third gear at a stop light. So I called it good enough, maybe even better than stock.
Carl

I am going to take the shifter lever to work and get 1/4-3/8 milled out of the middle then welded back together. Will let you know next weekend how it turns out.
Paul