The Stovebolt Site Forums The Parking Lot Tons 'o Fun 8 lug wheel spacers

Has anyone used wheel spacers to get newer model 8 lug wheels to allow the wheels to fit without hitting the tie-rod? I picked up a set of 16.5 chevy 2500 hd rims and would like to use them on my 1-ton project. If so what was the thickness?

Spacers usually create a lot of safety concerns and steering geometry problems. The ones made of aluminum are a weak link, unless longer, bigger-diameter studs are fitted. Why not just get the right wheel for the job instead of cobbling up something that's a hazard to yourself and everybody who shares the road with you?
Jerry

Not disagreeing with you in the least and safety is just one of the many reasons I am looking at different wheels and other upgrades for that mater. just trying to make a informed decision on the direction I wish to go.

This is the type of spacer I am referring to.

http://www.fourwheeler.com/how-to/1110or-truth-about-wheel-spacers-safety/

As for the right wheel for the job I am not sure what that would be. I have resided to the fact my truck will never be original so OEM is not always my only option.

One option is the 8 lug steel wheel designed for heavy duty trailers such as horse and/or cattle trailers. The manufacturers will tell you they're not suitable for car/truck use, but that's just a fairy tale dreamed up by the ambulance chasers because of the lack of a DOT number stamped on the wheel. The bolt pattern is an exact match to the Stovebolt 8 lug hub, and an adapter or a spacer shouldn't be required when using those wheels.
Jerry

I have a mixture of Ford Dodge and trailer rims on my 1Ton. The only difference that I can see by looking is that the trailer rims are welded all the way around. There are no spaces with the trailer rims. Some folks install clips to use the original hubcaps.

Would this rim work? http://www.etrailer.com/p-AM20766.html

Are you running trailer tires or truck radials?

I believe that is the type that I have. Some of these places also sell a hubcap that works on the front. I don't have any on the back.

16.5 tires are not so common any more, might be hard to replace on the road. Not very tall, either, so won't help top speed.

16.5's are the equivalent height of a 15" tube type tire. Ditto for 17.5's which duplicate 16's, etc. We used to use 22.5's and 20's occasionally on the same hub when changing tires on dual-wheel rear ends, etc. at the concrete plant where I ran the maintenance shop.
Jerry

What year truck did those wheels come from?

Longbox, they were off a 2005.

Ok. I was wondering since you said they were 16.5s in your first post. GM stopped using 16.5s in the early '80s. What you have are most likely 17s, which what they have on the newer trucks. Those won't work on the older trucks very well. An adapter/spacer is the only way they'll work, and many tire shops will not touch a vehicle with those installed due to liabilities. Best bet would be to get wheels with the correct backspace/offset, which will be less likely to cause bearing/scrub radius issues, plus it's 8 less lugs per wheel to make sure are torqued properly.

The only way I'd be comfortable with a spacer is if the lug bolts go through both the spacer and the wheel- - - -and only then if they're NASCAR-rated oversize bolts, maybe 5/8" or larger instead of OEM diameter.
Jerry

Yes, you are correct,I fat fingered it. They are 16 X 6.5 not 16.5. But spacers or no spacers I think the time, effort and modifications needed to just make the rims work will out weigh the benefit of having the newer rims so I will probably look at other options. I just don't care for the solid standard wheel.

I feel the same way, Jerry.