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#1124505 09/16/2015 7:25 PM
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I have a restored 1940 w/216 all parts are either used, n.o.s. or rebuilt with new 6v battery on truck. Anyway, I've always had a weak battery after running awhile and wouldn't have alotnof pwer to crank after a drive... It would static charge after a few hours or days and go back to normal but this wkend when I [censored] off the battery is completely dead dosent even click and has not static charged, I'll throw the batt charger onnit tonight but how can I correct this problem?

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T
Ex Hall Monitor
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What size are your cables? Are your cable connections clean, both ends?


Save a life, adopt a senior shelter pet.
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Name your dog Naked so you can walk Naked in the park.
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everything is super clean....not sure what size cables ( do you mean length?) Generator is rebuilt, new points, coil etc.

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'Bolter
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I don't understand what a static charge is. If you have a working ammeter, it should show a charging indication when the engine is running.


1951 GMC 1 Ton Flatbed -- It is finally on the road and what a great time I have driving it!
1951 1 Ton Completed


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Bubba - Curmudgeon
Bubba - Curmudgeon
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What size cables?
This is a very important question.

6v vehicles used no smaller than 2 gauge cable/ground-strap (smaller numbers are larger cables).

12 vehicles might have 4 gauge or even 6 gauge.

Many people with 6v vehicles use 0 gauge or 00 gauge cable/strap.They can be made-up at a welding supply shop; and, often Tractor Supply Co carries heavy gauge cables.

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have had similar problems with my 216,I think I might have a starter issue
it usually will only crank with battery charger on boost

( I cranked it a lot when trying to start after rebuild,)


just-a-hacker


'49 3100 before '99
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I have a 1950 3600 that sometimes does not like to start. Every now and then, I will step on the starter button and nothing happens and I can repeat this several times with the same results. Then it will catch and the starter will spin so in my case, I believe I have a problem with the switch on the starter. The other problem appears to be a bad wire to or from the ignition switch. Sometimes I have to put a jumper from the battery (cable on the starter) to the coil to get it to fire up.
Make sure your fan belt is tight enough.


1950 3600
1951 4400
Gazz
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Originally Posted by heavy40chevy
everything is super clean....not sure what size cables ( do you mean length?) Generator is rebuilt, new points, coil etc.
As Tim pointed out cable size (diameter} is important since a 6v system uses twice the amperage as 12v. I use 0 gauge. I've read that the factory used 1 gauge (lower number means thicker wire). You may be able to find heavier cables in stock at a farm store but that's not certain any more. I special ordered mine through the local Bumper To Bumper store. Some welding supply shops will make cables for you.


Save a life, adopt a senior shelter pet.
The three main causes of blindness: Cataracts, Politics, Religion.
Name your dog Naked so you can walk Naked in the park.
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I checked the cable is correct I tried to charge the battery and nothing....

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The other possible thing beside a charging issue is I had to jump it with a 12v in an emergency situation

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remove pushbutton assembly(selenoid) from top of starter. Clean contact button on top of starter. May be easier to remove starter from vehicle due to location of screws holding starter button assembly. If the button is worn or the contact inside the button assembly is worn you may be best to replace the button assembly. Over time the button or contact can get corroded from use or arcing. Local parts store family owned not major chain made up 00 gauge cables for me.

Last edited by kb3csw; 09/30/2015 5:45 PM.
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Bubba - Curmudgeon
Bubba - Curmudgeon
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Originally Posted by heavy40chevy
I checked the cable is correct I tried to charge the battery and nothing....
What size/gauge cables - power & ground, and ground strap from frame to clutch housing?

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I got time to work on it yesterday and it seems like after moving the cable around it will turn over and run, like I have to jiggle the power cable to the starter to get it to work.

It weird that this problem is occurring now bcs it was a reliable system for thousands of miles up until the other wkend.

I'm going to take all the cables off the truck today and I will get you all that info/measurements...i think i made that cable myself so there is really no marking or way to tell on the truck

also how do you gauge what size the ground strap bcs if I remember it was a braided wire/strap?

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I tried making up a cable from a set of jumper cables once...
They looked so beefy but there was only about ten strands of wire Incased in all that rubber blush


Give me ambiguity
or give me something else
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I just got a new 1 gauge cable took the old one off (which is only 2 years old) and the ended that attaches to the batt post was melted/warped looking

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Bubba - Curmudgeon
Bubba - Curmudgeon
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Are both the cables/straps from/to the battery 1 gauge?

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Maybe I'm miss reading this, but from the get go it sounds to me
like you have a bad battery. New or not, you can get a bad one.
If it appears to take a charge over night and then is dead after
it sits for a spell or when you put a load on it, then there's
probably an internal short from being dropped or something in the manufacture.
Try another battery.
dg


Denny G
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I will have to try that, meanwhile new cable is on the way (1 gauge)....keep you posted...how do I tell if the strap is a one guage?

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Put the 1 guage batt cable on today and it seems like it helped with the stating problem...thank for the help!

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The frame to engine ground strap is a braided strap, about 1" wide or a little more.


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