Click on image for the lowdown. 
====
| | |
7 members (Gray_Ghost, Rusty Heaps, Brian Moore, 55shaker, Otto Skorzeny, Hotrod Lincoln, 1 invisible),
85
guests, and
2
robots. | | Key: Admin,
Global Mod,
Mod | | | Forums66 Topics128,028 Posts1,055,414 Members48,422 | | Most Online14,466
Apr 26th, 2026 | | AD Chevy Trucks  Over 6,000 pictures Brad Allen has an awesome collection of Chevrolet factory pictures that he has set up from film strips. Check them out!
Lots of work on Brad's part ... pure enjoyment (and references) for you!
| | THANKS!
For helping keep this great
old truck web site
on the Internet for over 30 years! and not clogged down
with Ads!  Again, thanks!
| | | | Joined: Oct 2005 Posts: 43 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Oct 2005 Posts: 43 | 54 Chevy 4400 the front cylinders 7/8" are no longer available at Napa but they have a 1" with the same exterior size and mounting. How much will going from 7/8" to 1" affect the braking? am I better to send my 7/8" out to be bored and sleeved? | | | | | Joined: Jun 2011 Posts: 5,096 Crusing in the Passing Lane | | Crusing in the Passing Lane Joined: Jun 2011 Posts: 5,096 | More powerful brakes, if enough volume. Are you looking for '54 Chevy or by casting number on the cyl?
'37 GMC T-18 w/ DD 4-53T, RTO-610, 6231 aux., '95 GMC running gear, full disc brakes, power steering, 22.5 wheels and tires.
'47 GMC 1 ton w/ 302, NP-540, 4wd, full width Blazer front axle.
'54 GMC 630 w/ 503 gasser, 5 speed, ex fire truck, shortened WB 4', install 8' bed.
'55 GMC 370 w/270, 420 4 speed, grain, dump bed truck from ND. Works OK.
| | | | | Joined: Oct 2005 Posts: 43 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Oct 2005 Posts: 43 | I was looking by year 1954 and model 4400 1.5 ton. The casting numbers are 5454 385. I might be able to hone these out (kits are available). | | | | | Joined: Dec 2014 Posts: 13 New Guy | | New Guy Joined: Dec 2014 Posts: 13 | A change from 7/8 to 1" will result in about 30% more force on the front shoes and need 30% more volume of fluid for the same shoe adjustment. This will affect brake balance and give a longer brake peddle. My opinion is to stick with the original size. | | | | | Joined: Jul 2014 Posts: 48 Wrench Fetcher | | Wrench Fetcher Joined: Jul 2014 Posts: 48 | By installing a Wilwood 10 psi residual pressure valve after the master cylinder, the volume is not a problem as the necessary fluid will stay in the wheel cylinders. The additional braking with less pedal effort may be appreciated. | | | | | Joined: Nov 2010 Posts: 430 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Nov 2010 Posts: 430 | You should keep with the 7/8". When you start changing bore size you will need to make corresponding changes with the bore of the master.
Rebuild kits are cheap. Hone them slightly and put new rubber in. If you still have problems you can then send them in to be rebuilt.
| | | | | Joined: Jul 2014 Posts: 48 Wrench Fetcher | | Wrench Fetcher Joined: Jul 2014 Posts: 48 | Don't even bother honing if they are pitted. | | | | | Joined: Nov 2010 Posts: 430 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Nov 2010 Posts: 430 | I have had better than 50% success on honing pitted bores. Less than ideal? Yes. The ones on my 46 were very pitted. I expected to have them sleeved, but decided I would take my chances. An hour later I bleed the brakes and I have not had any issues with them in almost 3 years.
My point is, is that you will not spend very much time or money to see if they will work it and it will keep you on the road. | | | | | Joined: Apr 2005 Posts: 242 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Apr 2005 Posts: 242 | I may have the cylinders you need call me 1-262-392-2989
Marv. | | |
|
|
