The Stovebolt Site Forums The Parking Lot '60-'66 Trucks Hard shifting and noise

Hello all,

with the weather nice I took my 1961 C10 4 on the floor for a spin but wanted to reach out to y'all for some shifting advice.

I normally go from 2nd gear on up when starting from a stop (because I have a low 1st gear and was told that was best) but 90% of the time I get the jerks when getting going and its not a smooth shift. the rest are fine except a slight noise that I hear when going into 4, almost like a metallic hum that goes away after few minutes. So I guess my question is, what in your experience is the best method for shifting and what are some good checks for the clutch and trans? Ive never had any work done on either and not sure when any work was done last.

While you have the cover off, see if oil might be getting on the clutch disc. I suppose you have checked the grease in the trans.

if it is the release brg it will make noise whenever it is engaged. your trans is over 50 years and if it has never been touched it is about time. bearings do wear. a bearing and seal kit is priced reasonably and will improve your trans. When was the last time the gear oil was changed in the trans? that should be done periodically. it also tells you what is happening in there by looking what comes out in the gear oil. little silver flicks of metal or gray sludge will tell of bearing wear. after draining and with the plug out just run perhaps an allen wrench up inside the drain hole on the bottom of the case and see what crud that you pick up
you also have a hydraulic clutch linkage in that thing. how is the fluid level. do you ever get to smell any brake fluid in the cab?
does it have a 2 piece d/shaft; if so the centre support may be going as that can cause a flutter when you start out and can also cause that click when you shift into 4th. check ujoints also
ron

Thanks all for the advice.

I'll be pulling that cover and possible draining and replacing the oil when down there.

What is a good way to check the bearing on there and is the kit available at auto zone?

The only clutch work I have really done is when I had to replace mine on my 2002 Hyundai DD

any other major things I should look for down there when servicing? I know for a fact that it wouldn't have been touched in 7 years and for a good part of that it was never moved.

Thanks again guys.

if you are talking about the centre support; the bearing is held in by a heavy rubber. if you look at the rubber and if it is collapsed and you see tears i is toast and needs replacing. if you grasp it and it wobbles and moves up and down easily it is toast. usually the rubber goes before the bearing, so just replace the unit and you should be able to get one locally. take the old one with you as there are 2 different 1s. you will have to remove the d/s and good time to check ujoints.
if that rubber is gone the d/shaft will wobble in it under acceleration and then centre out a little under steady throttle and can cause a vibration back in the trans when you shift
ron
bad engine mounting can also give a funny feeling when taking off.
ron

Low and behold, oil was low and the drive shaft had a little play in it so I am going to replace that bearing and see if that helps. also, is it common to go from 2nd and shift up? I was told that years ago when I first drove the truck but never really asked if that is a good way to go about it.

Thanks all! and I will update with what I find when I get that bearing replaced

I start out in 3rd a lot of times in my i6 1ton, mind you I have a 4.56 rear. you only need first if you are pulling stumps or have a humungus load in the back and you need that gear to get going up a hill..or you aare going over nasty terrain that you need to go that slow
ron

My 1966 C30 had a 4 speed with "Granny Gear", and I never used 1st unless I was pulling stumps out. Drove it as a three speed for the nine years I had it.

If you start out in granny low 1st when you shift to second the gears will clash. However you can double clutch and the shift will be easy. To double clutch you depress the clutch and pull the shift lever to neutral. release clutch when in neutral for a moment. depress clutch and shift into second. Try it and it will become second nature.

I think my SM420s are synchronized for upshifts from 1st up to 4th?
It is not synchronized for downshift from 2nd to 1st.

I start my 62 k-20 with the sm420 in first always. Seems easier on everything to me. No issues shifting into second, it is synchronized.

I can tell you that if you have a road draft tube, and your inspection cover is off the bell housing, oil vapor can get on the clutch. That can make starting from a stop not that smooth.

Good luck with it.