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| | | Forums66 Topics128,034 Posts1,055,547 Members48,425 | | Most Online14,466 Apr 26th, 2026 | | AD Chevy Trucks Over 6,000 pictures Brad Allen has an awesome collection of Chevrolet factory pictures that he has set up from film strips. Check them out!
Lots of work on Brad's part ... pure enjoyment (and references) for you!
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on the Internet for over 30 years! and not clogged down with Ads! Again, thanks! | | | | Joined: Apr 2002 Posts: 2,168 A teacher, but always an apprentice. | | A teacher, but always an apprentice. Joined: Apr 2002 Posts: 2,168 | Got the steel for my floors, and i'm asking for tips before i start. Any you can think of are welcome. Thanks. | | | | | Joined: Jul 2006 Posts: 232 New Guy | | New Guy Joined: Jul 2006 Posts: 232 | Is the cab on the frame? If it is make sure the mounts are bolted down so the cab wont flex. Depending on how much you are doing you may want to weld in some added support. Mine is off the cab so I built a wood dolly and rails to bolt it to to simulate the frame. Seemed to work well. | | | | | Joined: Oct 2001 Posts: 3,458 Extreme Gabster | | Extreme Gabster Joined: Oct 2001 Posts: 3,458 | Leave the doors on it while you are welding so that you know if the cab gets warped. If you experience changes in how the doors close go back and fix it before you get too far. The cab depends a lot on the floor for its rigidity.
Paint & Body Shop moderator A lone amateur built the Ark. A large group of professionals built the Titanic. | | | | | Joined: Jun 2002 Posts: 272 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: Jun 2002 Posts: 272 | Makes me wonder if the doors did not close properly on my truck was because of the holes in the floor. even though they were fairly small | | | | | Joined: Apr 2002 Posts: 2,168 A teacher, but always an apprentice. | | A teacher, but always an apprentice. Joined: Apr 2002 Posts: 2,168 | the cab is off the frame, the mount braces under the floor also need to be replaced. how exactly do you brace the cab. Tack weld some angle iron across the doors. I will be doing the entire floorpans, and the kick panels just under the dash. any other info? thanks again | | | | | Joined: Jul 2006 Posts: 232 New Guy | | New Guy Joined: Jul 2006 Posts: 232 | I would probably weld supports from side to side and front to back down low to stabilize the floor area since u are doing the whole floor. | | | | | Joined: Feb 2000 Posts: 90 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Feb 2000 Posts: 90 | I braced my cab with old discarded bed rails (found 'em). I cut to fit inside the hinge pocket and tack welded them in place. They worked well, but I wish I had instead bolted plates to the hinge locations using the old hinge bolts and then welded the braces inplace onto those plates. (Maybe Next time) I was able to (and did quite often) roll the cab over on it's firewall to gain access to the underside whilst I replaced the forward cab supports. The roll-a-round device I used was (2) cheap 700# capacity dollies from Harbor Freight ($14ea) bolted together with some 2x4s that fit under the support areas of the cab (where it sit at this moment durnit). The floors went in nice (thank god for floor mats).
Terry 1953 1/2 ton | | | | | Joined: Nov 2003 Posts: 5 Member | | Member Joined: Nov 2003 Posts: 5 | if they are separate panesl,do one panel at a time lay a panel down and tace around it if possible then cut it out smaller than needed then trim making sure its not to big. | | | | | Joined: Apr 2002 Posts: 2,168 A teacher, but always an apprentice. | | A teacher, but always an apprentice. Joined: Apr 2002 Posts: 2,168 | Anybody have some pics of the operation? | | | | | Joined: Mar 2002 Posts: 9,115 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Mar 2002 Posts: 9,115 | In the Links section, you will find one to "Chuck the Truck". That site has a great supply of photos and information. Also, if you go to "Old Iron Chief", they have some project pictures and one is a red truck with a lot being replaced. | | |
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