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#1116358 07/30/2015 1:09 AM
Joined: Jun 2005
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'Bolter
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I have a 235 engine that has been rebuilt, but never installed. I am in the process of cleaning the paint off the engine that the machine shop applied and painting it like I want, close to original colors. Anyway, I wanted to know what type (brand) and weight of oil I should use and for how long. it will be a little while before I get the engine on the chassis, but I will have the motor on a stand where I can crank it periodically and allow it to run for short periods. Anyone every done it this way?

Thanks in advance,

John

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There is a nice proper break-in procedure here John:

http://devestechnet.com/Home/Project1959235#breakin

I hear that Brad Penn 30w Break-In oil is also a good choice. Once you have it properly broke in, put your choice of regular engine oil in.


Deve

1950 Chevy 3100 Deluxe Cab
1950 Chevy 3100 Standard Cab
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Read Deve's write up, it answers all your questions. It's easier to link it then to keep writing it up all the time.

I can tell you this, don't turn it over till you are ready to break-it in. You need to have the time to do a proper break-in, once thats done, you can start it when you want and for as long as you want. The short little runs are not good for a new cam. Also, just turning it over by hand is not good for it either. It needs oil pressure ASAP, or you risk bearing failure and or cam failure. Best to just let it set.

Oil choice is yours. Name brand 10w30 with additive, or break-in oil from Comp Cams, Royal Purple, or my favorite Brad Penn. All are good choices. Lucas makes a good additive and Comp Cams also makes one, both available at most parts stores. Summit Racing can get you any brand you want. Not synthetic till after 100 + road miles if you want to go that route.

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Repeatedly starting the engine is the worst possible thing you can do to it.

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If you don't mind- explain why "repeatedly starting the engine is the worst possible thing you can do to it", panic.

Thanks,
Brad


Wrench Fetcher, PhD
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B
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you need a steady flow of oil to the cam that can only be obtained by running the engine at 2000-2500 rpm gpt 25-30 minutes, or you will wipe out the cam. read the break in procedures of any cam manufacturer online. They give a step by step procedure

Last edited by brokenhead; 07/30/2015 12:21 PM.
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Once you break it in, you can run as you want. The only way a cam gets oil on the lobes is from the crank and rods throwing oil off up on the camshaft. The cam bearings do nothing for the lobes, and run off from the lifters is not enough for a new camshaft.
Lifter to lobe contact needs as much oil as you can throw at it while they are lapping or seating together, once they mate up, normal operation can happen.

If this engine has an old cam and lifters, then do as you want.

On a side note, once the engine first fires, do not shut it down till the full 20 minutes are done, and have the rpm up to 1500 to 1700 as soon as it fires, do not hesitate and do not monkey with tune up settings.

Joe

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Deve,

Great "Initial Run-up/Break-in" movie. Easy on the eyes and very informative.

New question for you. Can you please tell me the two colors of paint' orange (top cover) and aqua/turquoise blue (filter canister) that Chevrolet used for the oil filter holder attached to the manifold of the 1958 Apache?

Thanks for all your help and guidance.

John

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Gentlemen,

This is exactly the type information I was hoping for. I'm not there yet, but hope to be there to do the initial run in my stand by the end of the year.

John

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John the go-to guys on filter colors are Dads50 and tclederman. They know their stuff and can point you in the right direction.


Deve

1950 Chevy 3100 Deluxe Cab
1950 Chevy 3100 Standard Cab
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OK. Thank you!

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Bubba - Curmudgeon
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Originally Posted by brokenhead
you need a steady flow of oil to the cam that can only be obtained by running the engine at 2000-2500 rpm gpt 25-30 minutes, or you will wipe out the cam. read the break in procedures of any cam manufacturer online. They give a step by step procedure

Maybe with hi-hp dual valve spring whumpa-whumpa motors... but stock/mildly warmed up.. no. Wiping a cam is just not a risk that most people need to worry about.. unless something is assembled wrong.





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whatever, that is the procedure. Given by every cam manufacturer out there. You may not ruin the cam completely, but it sure won't do it any good.

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pfarber,
Everyone is entitled to their own opinion, but unless you have built thousands of inline-six engines without properly breaking in the cam by insuring adequate lubrication at the lifters, you would better serve the driving public by keeping your opinion to yourself on this issue.
Every cam manufacturer, and engine builder recommends the 2,000 RPM for 20 minutes break-in procedure.
Why?
To prevent returns from irate customers whose cams are wiped from improper cam break-in procedure, I'll bet.
Carl


1952 5-window - return to "as built" condition | 1950 3100 with a 235 and a T-5 transmission
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The difference between a good break-in and just a start up is about 20 to 30 minutes and an extra $15 to $25 dollars. Its up the end user to decide if he or she wants to spend the extra time and money.

Joe


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