Click on image for the lowdown. 
====
| | |
9 members (3B, BC59, bluechev, MickeyP, Rusty Heaps, 37 GC, Otto Skorzeny, pauld, 1 invisible),
84
guests, and
1
robot. | | Key: Admin,
Global Mod,
Mod | | | Forums66 Topics128,115 Posts1,056,628 Members48,450 | | Most Online14,466 Apr 26th, 2026 | | AD Chevy Trucks Over 6,000 pictures Brad Allen has an awesome collection of Chevrolet factory pictures that he has set up from film strips. Check them out!
Lots of work on Brad's part ... pure enjoyment (and references) for you!
| | THANKS!
For helping keep this great
old truck web site
on the Internet for over 30 years! and not clogged down with Ads! Again, thanks! | | | | Joined: Feb 2014 Posts: 75 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: Feb 2014 Posts: 75 | Am in the process of installing exhaust/intake manifolds on a 3100 216 engine. Is there a certain sequence to tighten the bolts and what is the recommended torque setting? Any particular do's or don'ts?
'53 3100 Short Bed Texas Peace Officer - supporter of the Badge and the Blue Line Pain is part of life, Misery is an option.
| | | | | Joined: Sep 2001 Posts: 29,270 Bubba - Curmudgeon | | Bubba - Curmudgeon Joined: Sep 2001 Posts: 29,270 | 5ptstar, First, lay the mating surface of the manifold assembly on a flat surface. If it lays flat on the surface (no significant "air gaps"), you have a high probability for a good seal. If it has gaps, you could try two sets of gaskets, or take the assembly to a machine shop to have the assembled mating surface planed ($50 job, probably). Here are torque specs for later 235/261 engines - they should be OK for the older 216/235 engines. Maybe someone has a link to the specs for a 216, or they can post a link to a Motor's Auto Repair Manual torque-specs page? I tighten from inside bolts outwards - by feel (no torque wrench). If I could get a torque wrench in there, I would use 30 ft-lbs as max for all bolts and tighten in this sequence: 1/3 max spec (10), then again at 2/3 max spec (20), then finally at full/max spec (30). Please do not ask me how you torque the intake manifold to a different setting from the exhaust manifold. I look forward to reading how others do that. | | | | | Joined: May 2007 Posts: 289 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: May 2007 Posts: 289 | One don't is to not fully tighten the bolts that hold the two manifolds together until after they are mounted to the engine. They need to be able to "float" a little in order for the intake manifold to properly seat on the alignment rings. Mike | | | | | Joined: Sep 2001 Posts: 29,270 Bubba - Curmudgeon | | Bubba - Curmudgeon Joined: Sep 2001 Posts: 29,270 | 5ptstar,
Are your manifolds now apart or bolted together? | | | | | Joined: Feb 2014 Posts: 75 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: Feb 2014 Posts: 75 |
'53 3100 Short Bed Texas Peace Officer - supporter of the Badge and the Blue Line Pain is part of life, Misery is an option.
| | | | | Joined: Jul 2013 Posts: 160 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Jul 2013 Posts: 160 | Ditto on Tims tightening sequence. I put mine on tonite and tightened the ends first and the manifold Assy did not sit flat on the head, there was a gap on the lower edges. I loosened and did it Tims way and it sit perfectly flat now. On the torque specs , the shop manual has the exact opposit range Center clamp bolts 15-20 ft lbs End clamp bolts 25-30 ft lbs . I say tighten until tight, you results may vary. | | | | | Joined: Feb 2014 Posts: 75 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: Feb 2014 Posts: 75 | Thanks, everyone. I have days-off coming up and plan to install the manifolds then.
'53 3100 Short Bed Texas Peace Officer - supporter of the Badge and the Blue Line Pain is part of life, Misery is an option.
| | |
| |