Click on image for the lowdown. 
====
| | |
7 members (Forty9, fonz8261, jkreiner, treegrower, Bill Hanlon, Wally / Montana, TexasJim50),
51
guests, and
0
robots. | | Key: Admin,
Global Mod,
Mod | | | Forums66 Topics128,074 Posts1,055,914 Members48,429 | | Most Online14,466
Apr 26th, 2026 | | AD Chevy Trucks  Over 6,000 pictures Brad Allen has an awesome collection of Chevrolet factory pictures that he has set up from film strips. Check them out!
Lots of work on Brad's part ... pure enjoyment (and references) for you!
| | THANKS!
For helping keep this great
old truck web site
on the Internet for over 30 years! and not clogged down
with Ads!  Again, thanks!
| | | | Joined: Oct 2006 Posts: 1,847 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Oct 2006 Posts: 1,847 | Is there any magic way to keep the knurled nut/collar from backing off? Also is there another material available for the seal other than cork? I cannot get this to stop leaking, I tighten up the collar, and after a 20 minute drive it is loose and leaking again. Thanks for any suggestions. | | | | | Joined: Sep 2001 Posts: 29,269 Bubba - Curmudgeon | | Bubba - Curmudgeon Joined: Sep 2001 Posts: 29,269 | Some threads on the topic: Thread 1 Thread 2 Thread 3 | | | | | Joined: Sep 2001 Posts: 29,269 Bubba - Curmudgeon | | Bubba - Curmudgeon Joined: Sep 2001 Posts: 29,269 | Thanks, Ed
If anyone uses that seal, please report back on how well it works. Inquiring minds (with leaky seals, or who want to avoid leaky seals) want to know. | | | | | Joined: Jan 2001 Posts: 5,337 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Jan 2001 Posts: 5,337 | I have used the O-ring on many 1929-32's. They do not have an adjustable collar/nut, the seal is just crimped in place. It has worked well on those.
See the USA in your vintage Chevrolet! My Blog | | | | | Joined: Oct 2006 Posts: 1,847 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Oct 2006 Posts: 1,847 | thanks for the responses...
| | | | | Joined: Oct 2013 Posts: 122 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Oct 2013 Posts: 122 | "Thread 1" above was mine. Loctite worked. | | | | | Joined: Jan 2002 Posts: 2,254 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Jan 2002 Posts: 2,254 | Thank you. I have this problem since changing out my rear gears.
Dennis
-there is nothing stronger than the heart of a volunteer-
| | | | | Joined: Mar 2011 Posts: 1,146 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: Mar 2011 Posts: 1,146 | Below is a pic of a 1954 Chevrolet 3100 Hydra-Matic Ball Housing with Fresh Seals If you look closely at the rear of the torque tube retainer threaded on ring. The ball housing has about a inch of extra threads behind the torque tube retainer. Why couldn't you screw on a large thin nut first to use as a locking nut to hold the torque tube retainer. That's if you have a extra threads on the ball housing. | | | | | Joined: Apr 2005 Posts: 507 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: Apr 2005 Posts: 507 | Post your question over on the VCCA Chat site. Skip Gear (AKA Junk Yard Dog) Posted in the past about replacing the cork seal with an O-Ring which stopped most leaks from the Torque tube Bell fitting.
"If it ain't Steel it ain't Real" "Earth the insane aslyum for the rest of the Universe" 41 1/2-ton, a work in progress 68 Shortbed stepside 327/325hp/700R4
| | | | | Joined: Apr 2005 Posts: 507 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: Apr 2005 Posts: 507 | Found the article that I told you about on the torque Tube ball Seal. Will send it to you via email
"If it ain't Steel it ain't Real" "Earth the insane aslyum for the rest of the Universe" 41 1/2-ton, a work in progress 68 Shortbed stepside 327/325hp/700R4
| | |
|
|
