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| | | | Joined: Jul 2003 Posts: 141 Member | | Member Joined: Jul 2003 Posts: 141 | I started rebuilding and restoring the vent window structure today after getting everything out of the doors. The Shop Manual was invaluable and there were no major surprises. Since I plan on putting new rubber in and replacing a couple of cracked windows I tackled the vent window disassembly and removed some of the rivets to get parts off.
I had none of the rivets sold by the parts dealers but I had some pop rivets that I use when building my Ham Radio antennas and decided to try a couple of them. I found one that works perfectly and is very economical.
Arrow Rivets ... model RSA 1/8 IP.
They are 1/8 inch in diameter and the pull area is 1/4 inch. They come in steel also, but I have lots of aluminum ones so I used them. I got them at Lowes for about $5.00 for a box of 100. I used my old hand pop rivet gun.
Hope this helps someone in the future.
shoeless | | | | | Joined: Feb 2002 Posts: 2,893 Socket Breaker | | Socket Breaker Joined: Feb 2002 Posts: 2,893 | Thanks for the tip shoeless. What year truck are you working on?
I have the rubber to redo my vent windows('65 C10)... but I have not tackled it yet, as I realized I'd need new rivet thingees.... and I have no rivet gun.
Plus, I am guessing as to how to take the old ones out... I am guessing to drill off one side of the rivet?
-W | | | | | Joined: Jul 2003 Posts: 141 Member | | Member Joined: Jul 2003 Posts: 141 | Woog ...
My truck is a '52 1/2 ton and I'm just starting to do some of the small body work tasks.
I'm completely unqualified to do any bodywork or painting but I can tackle these small items.
An entry level hand pop rivet gun will run you about $15 and will be good for about 200 rivets, then something will break. My gun was about $30 but I've probably pulled 2,000 rivets over the last 10 years.
Use a 1/8" drill bit to remove the rivets and drill from the side with the indention if you can. You need to drill all the way through.
Good luck!!
shoeless | | | | | Joined: Feb 2002 Posts: 2,893 Socket Breaker | | Socket Breaker Joined: Feb 2002 Posts: 2,893 | shoeless,
in your post you say the 'pull area is 1/4
inch' - what are you referring to? I do not knwo anything about rivets myself...
Thanks,
-W | | | | | Joined: Jul 2003 Posts: 141 Member | | Member Joined: Jul 2003 Posts: 141 | The pull area is an approximation of the length of the rivet body that will be left after you have popped the stem. This is the body of the rivet, and the portion that actually holds things together. If the body is too long the parts won't come together ... if it is too short the rivet will not pop.
They come in several lengths for each diameter.
The part number indicates size ...
RSA 1/8 ... the "S" means small and = 1/4 pull.
RMA 1/8 ... medium and 1/2 pull
RLA 1/8 ... large and 3/4 pull
etc., etc.
Other vendors probably have different coding.
Before you get ready to do the final install it would be a good idea to practice on some scrap metal. Drill 1/8" holes in a couple of pieces and pop some practice rivets. Then drill them out to get the feel of it. You will be a pro in 15 minutes.
shoeless | | | | | Joined: Feb 2002 Posts: 2,893 Socket Breaker | | Socket Breaker Joined: Feb 2002 Posts: 2,893 | Thanks so much for the extra information shoeless. This thread should be a 'tech article'.  -W | | |
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