The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area The Electrical Bay Starter is starting to act up

My 52 3100 didn't want to start this morning. I still have a 6v floor starter that's running on 12v. When I pushed the floor starter nothing happened. Volt gauge shows 12v so I know it's not a dead battery. I tried from under the hood and still got nothing when I worked the linkage. I pushed down on the button on the starter only and it spun over, went back in the cab it and started that time. Do I need to pull the starter and get it rebuilt? Or is there something else I need to look at?

If you can start it outside by pressing the button on the starter, you have a linkage problem. The fact that you were able to get back inside and start it indicates it is a minor adjustment somewhere in the linkage assembly.

I looked through the shop manual and didn't see any way to adjust the linkage.

Most likely the push button switch the linkage pushes on is bad.

Replace the push button switch (with side post for by-passing the ballast resistor, if you have one) OR maybe jury-rig solve the worn-button problem by placing a small piece of sliced water-hose over the button. That will give you more "push" (so you do not have to "stomp" the button).

If the copper button built-into the starter is too worn down, you'll need to rebuild the starter or get a better starter (even stomping on it will not work).

Tim,
In a pinch just to get by,
I,ve taken the push button off and turned the copper button over.
Common to see pitting on it and the contact it meets on top of the starter.
steve sr.

You have to observe the linkage in action with a helper pushing to see if that is the problem. There are all kinds of ways to "adjust". Sloppy/worn pivot points, worn levers or loose cotter pins would be what to look for. If you feel it is the switch or the button on the starter case. Both are easily available.
The question to ask yourself is what was the difference between when you "worked the linkage" under the hood and "pushed down on button on starter only". What was preventing the linkage from doing what your hand did? You need to test each of those methods you did several times to get an accurate result. To prove that one does not work and the other does, every time for 10 times. Then decide on a fix. So far, it sounds like the "stroke" on the foot mechanism is not enough anymore. BUT that one test you did is NOT enough to eliminate button or switch or battery or wiring.... yes batteries can show 12V static and still be bad.

I general for any problem:
What most advisors try to say as they guess what is wrong: Don't run around buying/rebuilding things until you know what is wrong by using simple troubleshooting techniques and observation. This is what most of the experienced members here do. Some just know what it is right off.
Sometimes it is easy and inexpensive to use the replacement method especially if a part is old. That's OK. It's just more rewarding to figure it out if you are not in a hurry or stuck. But that method can go on and on.

steve sr,

Good advice - I have successfully done as your describe.

A quick diagnostic trick is to epoxy a 1/4" flat washer onto the top of the switch button. One of two things are likely to happen- - - -the problem will be solved if the button isn't being pushed far enough, or the starter gear will grind if the motor begins to turn before the drive gear is fully engaged in the flywheel teeth.
Jerry

Update:
It's worked fine since that one time. Started up to take me home after work and then again this morning to come into work. This weekend I'll have my son work the button in the cab while I look at what's happening under the hood. Thanks everyone for the suggestions. I'll report back with any findings.

Had my son work the starter from inside the cab while I watched under the hood. Everything looked good. It hasn't not worked since that one time. I'm going to order a new switch for the starter to have on hand in case it doesn't work again.

Thanks everyone for the suggestions.

Keep a lid from an oil bottle in the glove box.

My starter started acting like that untill one day my wife and I were on a weekend road trip and I'd just filled up the tank for the drive home and the truck wouldn't start. Well, I looked around and found an oil bottle lid lying next to the gas pump, so I took it and dropped it down over the button on the starter. That cap has been there for the last two years and Ive not had a single problem with the starter.

Good tip. I have plenty of those laying around. I drain my oil bottles and then throw them away but the caps never get put back on the drained bottles.

Nice tip, twotone

Had to use the oil bottle cap to get home Thursday, (thanks twotone). Called NAPA and got a new switch yesterday and changed it out this morning. Put the oil cap back in the glove box just in case.

You have probably noted that there are two copper contacts that can wear: the contact in the starter switch and the contact on the starter. When the contact on the starter is so worn that the bottle cap (or piece of hose/spacer) no longer makes a reliable contact, it is time for a good rebuild or a new/rebuilt starter.

Sometimes the button on top of the starter develops a residue. removing push button assembly and cleaning button on top of starter may help. be sure to retain insulating material inside push button assembly.

I got my new starter switch from Tractor Supply. Ordered it on line and got free to store shipping $11.99 . Part number 820052