The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area Engine Shop 235 engine removal using eyebolts

I know this has been hashed over before but do the 6" 2200 lb rated eye bolts from tractor supply work, removing the 2 head bolts and screwing those back in ? does it work without removing the rocker Assembly? I was confused. Anybody here used that procedure?

As long as they're forged eye bolts (not the rolled ones with an open gap) with a 1/2"-13 thread they should work just fine. I'd suggest cutting a short sleeve of pipe to slip over the eyebolt, and tighten it down snug rather than just letting the bolt float free in the thread. As long as the lift chain doesn't put any strain on the rocker shaft or rocker arms, it won't hurt to leave the rocker assembly installed. I'd suggest clevises to attach the chain to the eyebolts.
Jerry

I agree with the forged eyelet part. I have been too apathetic to do the sleeve of pipe, but that is a really good idea. Here is how I like to do it.

[img]http://www.surfacezero.com/g503/data/3596/2013-07-14_12_24_311.jpg[/img]

Paul

Is two eye bolts sufficient to carry the weight without damaging the engines threads for the 90 pound torque head bolts? You probably have about 700 pounds there or so? I wonder how the math works out.

How would using 2 eye bolts be any different than any other type of bolt to attach a chain to the engine?
BTW, with 2 bolts, the stress on each threaded hole would be 1/2 of the weight lifted.
Carl

Most people just bolted the chain links under the head bolts and hung the whole mess on about 2 or 3 threads. Now, that's dangerous! Eyebolts are plenty strong as long as they have at least 5 or 6 threads engaged.
Jerry

I know Carl. 300+ pounds on each tapped head bolt hole, so I am wondering if four wouldn't be better for the longevity of the engines head torquing? If everyone feels two is enough, thats great, just bringing it up.

I see people (including a local machine shop) pick them up with the intake/exhaust manifold and just cringe. Many an exhaust manifold destroyed that way.

When a head bolt is torqued up, it provides a clamping force much greater than the weight of that motor. I am responding to the question about lifting with only two bolts.

love it

Thanks everyone for the quick responses ...eye bolts it is.......just wondering if you pull the rocker assembly off does that require adjusting lifters and does the oil tube come off with it?....i have never messed with the 6 cylinders

The 1941 technical manual describes the way I posted...unless we are smarter now, it worked back then.

So from what Fred is saying, put a washer and a nut on the bolt threads and tighten it down to the head (or use Jerry's pipe idea) to strengthen yes?

Yes, disturbing the rocker assembly requires valve adjusting, but that needs to be part of the maintenance routine anytime any sort of tuneup is done, when the phase of the moon changes, and a bunch of other times. Valve adjustment should be so ingrained into a stovebolt mechanic's routine he can do it in his sleep, hung over, or any other time I can imagine. These old rigs need a LOT of TLC. Setting points, adjusting timing, adjusting valves, filing and re-gapping spark plugs- - - -that's how us old geezers paid the rent and the grocery bill back when the labor rate was $7.50 an hour!
Jerry

http://www.mcmaster.com/#eyebolts/=y1if8d

Pricey, but made for the job.

Great Ideas here thanks a bunch!

Bought this equalizer bar from HF, I had good luck with it leveling the load. My truck was frame-off so I came in/out with trans installed.
https://www.flickr.com/photos/advance-design_parts_co/8129078353/in/album-72157631867396207/

I have the exact same equalizer bar, and I don't know how I lived without it years ago.

me three! great stuff!