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#1111878 07/05/2015 4:30 AM
Joined: Feb 2013
Posts: 34
T
Wrench Fetcher
Wrench Fetcher
T Offline
Joined: Feb 2013
Posts: 34
Having successfully removed the spring shackle side plates (the BFH and large punch worked well) and the pins, the next challenge is removing the clearly worn out bushings.

I constructed the bushing puller described in the article in this forum, and it actually started to work, pulling the old bushing out about 3/8". At that point it stopped working, with the bolt in the puller spinning in the bushing.

Do I need a bigger bolt that fits the bushing tighter?
Should I apply heat to the fitting holding the bushing?
Can I use the new bushing and a hammer to drive out the old bushing?

Thanks!


Trooper Jeff
If I can't drive my truck, fetch my horse
"Courage is saddling up even though you are scared to death" - John Wayne
Joined: Sep 2001
Posts: 29,269
Bubba - Curmudgeon
Bubba - Curmudgeon
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Joined: Oct 2006
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D
'Bolter
'Bolter
D Offline
Joined: Oct 2006
Posts: 9,671
Not quite as generic as the other means of removing/pressing the
front and rear bushings but this was my solution. Perhaps you
can find something you can use in these pictures:
http://www.pbase.com/dennygraham/image/122328118

dg


Denny G
Sandwich, IL
Joined: Mar 2014
Posts: 4,485
J
Moderator, Electrical Bay
Moderator, Electrical Bay
J Offline
Joined: Mar 2014
Posts: 4,485
You may need a larger diameter bolt. I've tried this using things like 5/16" all-thread and it never worked for me. Large in this case can be good. Good luck. Using a hammer and the new bushing to drive out the old one sounds to me like it might just ruin the new one?
Jon


~ Jon
1952 1/2 ton with 1959 235 | T5 with 3.07 rear end
Joined: Jan 2001
Posts: 5,337
P
'Bolter
'Bolter
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Posts: 5,337


See the USA in your vintage Chevrolet!
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3
'Bolter
'Bolter
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Posts: 914
Originally Posted by Pre '68 Dave

I like that way as well.

Joined: Mar 2010
Posts: 10,279
5
Renaissance Man
Renaissance Man
5 Offline
Joined: Mar 2010
Posts: 10,279
I lucked into some grade 8, 3/8" all-thread somehow. It won't strip out like the soft steel which most all-thread seems to be made of. I use the 1" long coupler nuts to spread the work around along all of the additional threads compared to a standard 3/8 nuts. If I have a bushing that is extra stubborn, I use a propane torch to warm up the spring end or the frame mounted bushing bracket a bit to create a little expansion.
Carl


1952 5-window - return to "as built" condition | 1950 3100 with a 235 and a T-5 transmission

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