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| | | Forums66 Topics128,075 Posts1,056,007 Members48,433 | | Most Online14,466 Apr 26th, 2026 | | AD Chevy Trucks Over 6,000 pictures Brad Allen has an awesome collection of Chevrolet factory pictures that he has set up from film strips. Check them out!
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on the Internet for over 30 years! and not clogged down with Ads! Again, thanks! | | | | Joined: Feb 2013 Posts: 34 Wrench Fetcher | | Wrench Fetcher Joined: Feb 2013 Posts: 34 | Having successfully removed the spring shackle side plates (the BFH and large punch worked well) and the pins, the next challenge is removing the clearly worn out bushings.
I constructed the bushing puller described in the article in this forum, and it actually started to work, pulling the old bushing out about 3/8". At that point it stopped working, with the bolt in the puller spinning in the bushing.
Do I need a bigger bolt that fits the bushing tighter? Should I apply heat to the fitting holding the bushing? Can I use the new bushing and a hammer to drive out the old bushing?
Thanks!
Trooper Jeff If I can't drive my truck, fetch my horse "Courage is saddling up even though you are scared to death" - John Wayne
| | | | | Joined: Sep 2001 Posts: 29,269 Bubba - Curmudgeon | | Bubba - Curmudgeon Joined: Sep 2001 Posts: 29,269 | | | | | | Joined: Oct 2006 Posts: 9,671 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Oct 2006 Posts: 9,671 | Not quite as generic as the other means of removing/pressing the front and rear bushings but this was my solution. Perhaps you can find something you can use in these pictures: http://www.pbase.com/dennygraham/image/122328118dg
Denny G Sandwich, IL
| | | | | Joined: Mar 2014 Posts: 4,485 Moderator, Electrical Bay | | Moderator, Electrical Bay Joined: Mar 2014 Posts: 4,485 | You may need a larger diameter bolt. I've tried this using things like 5/16" all-thread and it never worked for me. Large in this case can be good. Good luck. Using a hammer and the new bushing to drive out the old one sounds to me like it might just ruin the new one? Jon
~ Jon 1952 1/2 ton with 1959 235 | T5 with 3.07 rear end
| | | | | Joined: Jan 2001 Posts: 5,337 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Jan 2001 Posts: 5,337 |
See the USA in your vintage Chevrolet! My Blog | | | | | Joined: Jan 2015 Posts: 914 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Jan 2015 Posts: 914 | | | | | | Joined: Mar 2010 Posts: 10,279 Renaissance Man | | Renaissance Man Joined: Mar 2010 Posts: 10,279 | I lucked into some grade 8, 3/8" all-thread somehow. It won't strip out like the soft steel which most all-thread seems to be made of. I use the 1" long coupler nuts to spread the work around along all of the additional threads compared to a standard 3/8 nuts. If I have a bushing that is extra stubborn, I use a propane torch to warm up the spring end or the frame mounted bushing bracket a bit to create a little expansion. Carl
1952 5-window - return to "as built" condition | 1950 3100 with a 235 and a T-5 transmission
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