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Joined: Aug 2013
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'Bolter
'Bolter
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Probably a simple step but I'm a little stumped as to how to remove the axle from the linkage that leads to my steering wheel. The axle is disconnected from the leaf springs and all that is left is the linkage. Thanks!


1942 BK 1/2 Ton Pickup
1954 3800 1 Ton Pickup
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'Bolter
'Bolter
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I have a 1942 1/2 ton


1942 BK 1/2 Ton Pickup
1954 3800 1 Ton Pickup
Joined: May 2015
Posts: 236
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Shop Shark
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Are you talking on removing the tie rods from the steering knuckle arms. http://chevy.oldcarmanualproject.com/shop/1942/42csm0300.htm
If so a tie rod separator should do the job.
If you do not have one your local auto parts store should have a loaner or HF has them.


Baking in the nice desert sun, breathing life back into a 48 3800 5 window.
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'Bolter
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I think I'm looking at removing the steering and third arm.


1942 BK 1/2 Ton Pickup
1954 3800 1 Ton Pickup
Joined: Jan 2015
Posts: 914
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'Bolter
'Bolter
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I do not know about your truck though on later autos the steering arm and steering spindle are all cast as one piece so there is no way to remove the steering arm.

Now the photo calls them steering knuckle and steering knuckle support back then. Same thing.

Now if on your year truck if the steering arm is bolted to the steering spindle you just unbolt it.

Though there should be no need to remove the steering arm for there is nothing to wear out. It is the tie rod end that goes into the hole on the end of the steering arm that needs to be replaced if it is worn out.

My problem is you referred to a "third arm" and I did not see that in those photos. So what are you talking about?

And why are you taking things apart?

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'Bolter
'Bolter
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The steering arm is integral with the tie rod arms, and can be removed separately from the knuckle. To remove the drag link from the steering arm, you will need a drag link socket to disassemble the drag link end.
Probably the easiest and quickest way to take care of the issue so the axle can be removed will be to remove the pitman arm from the steering box, and remove the axle and linkage as an assembly.


Bill Burmeister
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'Bolter
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That photo in the manual refers to the '42 car. The '42 truck has a different set up. I'm taking it apart because I'm in the middle of a restoration. It's time to remove the axle and tie rods. However the steering linkage is still attached. I unbolted the axle from the leaf springs and all that his left to remove is the steering linkage or in the manual is referred to the steering and third arm.


1942 BK 1/2 Ton Pickup
1954 3800 1 Ton Pickup
Joined: Aug 2013
Posts: 116
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'Bolter
'Bolter
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That's what I'm trying to do is remove it all together. Im going to have to google what a drag link socket looks like. I'm going to have to figure this out tomorrow morning.
Originally Posted by LONGBOX55
The steering arm is integral with the tie rod arms, and can be removed separately from the knuckle. To remove the drag link from the steering arm, you will need a drag link socket to disassemble the drag link end.
Probably the easiest and quickest way to take care of the issue so the axle can be removed will be to remove the pitman arm from the steering box, and remove the axle and linkage as an assembly.


1942 BK 1/2 Ton Pickup
1954 3800 1 Ton Pickup
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Last edited by 48 Yuma Rebel; 06/25/2015 2:55 AM.

Baking in the nice desert sun, breathing life back into a 48 3800 5 window.
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'Bolter
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Drag link socket. The way the drag link is assembled, it has to be taken apart to be removed from the steering and pitman arms. There's a plug in the end of the housing, should have a cotter pin securing it in position, that has to be removed. It has a slot in like a larger screw. The special socket is designed to allow not only for removal, but also proper installation and preload adjustment.
Figure 43, which is of the tie rod, shows how the drag link ends come apart. They are virtually identical in construction.

Last edited by LONGBOX55; 06/25/2015 3:16 AM.

Bill Burmeister
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If your lucky and have no frozen rust the socket works great.
But I am on my third heating and still no budge, fine threads make things worse. Socket just rides right up out. Of course the normal twist and movement of the arm does not make for any good leverage.


Baking in the nice desert sun, breathing life back into a 48 3800 5 window.
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'Bolter
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I was able to get it today after going back and forth scrubbing grime out I was able to figure out where that socket was supposed to fit. I guess I lucked out, a little PB blaster and with the turn of a large screw driver and it came right out! I learn something new each time I work on this truck!


1942 BK 1/2 Ton Pickup
1954 3800 1 Ton Pickup
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Posts: 914
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'Bolter
'Bolter
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Good job.

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'Bolter
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I am stumped once again. As stated I removed the steering linkage arms however there is one last arm connected to the steering gear box. it runs through the frame. (I looked through the manual for the name of this one but couldn't find it so bear with me on the description) I cant seem to get it to budge. It looks like the rod it attaches to has teeth, possibly brass or copper? I don't want to be too hard with it because I don't want to warp the teeth. Anyone know a way to get this arm off so that I can remove the entire steering gear?


1942 BK 1/2 Ton Pickup
1954 3800 1 Ton Pickup
Joined: May 2006
Posts: 8,351
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'Bolter
'Bolter
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Pitman arm. Requires a pitman arm puller to remove it.


Bill Burmeister
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'Bolter
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You are going to need the pitman arm puller for this job, no other way around it. Take the big nut off first, then install the puller. Be sure to center it on the pitman arm, and also to grease the center point and the threads on the puller before starting. Put plenty off torque on the puller and when you think you have tight, smack the end of the pullers threaded rod with a hammer. If it doesn't pop off, tighten some more and give it another smack. It helps to hold one hammer on the tool and hit it with a second hammer. You are working with a tapered, splined shaft. The shaft also has one double spline so the arm will only fit one way, it may fit four ways, but only one is correct and it will be pretty clear to you.

Most of the time they will pop off after a few hits, some take heat, and some take really big hammers!

Hope yours is the first kind,

Joe


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