The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area Engine Shop Stovebolt Engine Break-In Procedure Needed

Is there a good stovebolt initial engine break-in procedure for complete rebuilds somewhere? The ones you can get from Summit and elsewhere are for high rpm V8's. I am hoping we have one, if not can the experts please state what they would do? Thanks!

I'm no expert but the consensus I came to on my breakin strategy was on 1st start run the engine up to 2K rpm and hold it there for 20 minutes. This is to breakin the cam & lifters.

I used Brad Penn 30w breakin oil w/it's increased ZDDP additive to aid in breakin.

I didn't achieve the full 20 minute breakin run until the 3rd start/run as I encountered problems on the 1st two. Didn't seem to adversely effect cam/lifter breakin but time will tell.

I changed the oil after the full 20 minute breakin run. This was primarily to check for any breakin debris and/or any water or gas that may have worked its way into the oil. None was found (knock on wood).
I put in another 5 qts of fresh Brad Penn 30w break in oil for the next 500 miles or so then change to a std modern 30w oil.

Good luck
Dave

I am no expert, but we broke in a 261 last night.

It had Brad Penn break-in oil in it.
It started up easily.
We raised the rpm to 2,000 and adjusted the timing (maximum vacuum).
We ran it at 2,000rpm for 20 minutes.

If we should have done more or done differently, I hope someone posts information.

After the initial break-in, I'll also do what Dave describes above: change the oil but probably run new Brad Penn break-in oil for a couple thousand miles.

Oh yeah, I'll also:
- warm up the engine (5-10 minutes at operating temperate - 600rpm idle),
- stop the engine,
- re-torque the head bolts, manifold bolts, rocker-arm studs, and,
- set valve lash.

So, prior to initial startup, set the valves cold.
Put in break-in oil.
Use a drill and pump oil thru to ensure rockers are getting oil.
run it at 2k for 20 mins.
stop the engine.
while warm, drain the oil and put in another round.
also while warm, torque head, manifold, rocker assbly.
set valves while warm too.

Right?

This engine is no different then any other engine factory stock rebuilt engine as far as break-in goes. Even the radical race engines follow the same procedures, just the valve springs are changed out some times so as to not load the cams so hard. Roller lifter cams don't need anything, they can be fired right up and run at idle as long as the oil pressure is good.

1800 - 2000 rpm for 15 minutes
then raise the rpm for the last five minutes up to 2250 a little at a time

Before starting, have a good know carburetor full of gas with a fuel system suppling fresh gas.

Have the water level full and be sure no air pockets are in the engine. Water works the best, it's also easy to clean up if something was to go wrong.

Have the timing as close as you get it and once started, get the rpm up, do not fiddle with timing if the engine is running OK.

Prime the oil system with a drill motor and have the valve cover off to be sure oil is getting to the top of the engine. I rotate the engine two full revolution while running the oil pump to fill all hydraulic lifters. Two turns will get you back to point where you pulled the distributor out.

Have the rockers adjusted, loose is better then tight if you error on the safe side.

Have some exhaust on with a muffler, even if it temporary, you need to hear the engine and whats going on with it.

Temporary gauges mounted under the hood or on the engine is helpful, it keeps you from running back to the cab to check, it's also a good way to double check your factory gauges.

Have a well charged battery and heavy cables, clean grounds, and a quick way to disable the battery if needed.

Have a garden hose handy to cool the radiator if needed, its best to keep it running and not keep shutting it off for this or that.

Have a fire extinguisher handy and tools handy, keep your work area clear and don't try this in a garage.

Don't forget the oil, Brad Penn is excellent oil, Comp cams also has very good oil.

Last of all, don't walk away from it, keep you eyes peeled for anything.

Joe

That is excellent Joe! Thanks for that. Mine will be running on a test stand with muffler, gauges, etc, with the fire extinguisher right there. I will use this to the letter. Thanks again! We don't have Brad Penn close so Lucas break-in oil will have to do.

Nice list/procedure, Joe

Its all basic stuff, but its easy to forget sometimes. I get pretty nervous starting engines even after doing so many of them. I have everything laid out and ready, then double and triple check everything again. Most all the ones I start are a customers that I put together, so if it goes wrong, I am stuck with the bill, and I sure don't want that. I went back and added the oil priming to the list, can't believe I forgot that!

Joe