The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area Driveline Differential Carrier Gasket

Hi, how exactly is the differential carrier gasket replaced on a 52 1/2 ton? I looked at the shop manual and did a search but to me it remains unclear.

The diff is leaking badly, but I was thinking about changing the inspection gasket only.

A back cover on any rear is just a lid you take off and replace the gasket. If the carrier is leaking at the banjo housing, a quick fix is to loosen it a little and wrap cotton string around the entire thing and then retighten. Back before we had RTV this was a standard fix and it lasted just as long as gaskets.

GL5 eats on gaskets. We now use synthetic 80W140 and RTV and have zero leaks.

I hope you have better luck with a new gasket than I did. Bought a new gasket (paper thin). Leaked when installed dry, added copper coat, still leaked. Coated the old gasket with copper coat, re-installed - no leak.

The paper-thin gasket arrived in the mail and it looks entirely useless. Crenwelge, cotton string is such a great idea, that is exactly what I will do. Many thanks for your help, I will let you know how it goes.

HYLOMAR Universal Blue on the gaskets, both sides. Take it slow and easy spreading it on the paper thin gaskets but once done it works.

Great seal, great for multiple assembly/reassembly needs (had one paper gasket on a carb that was over ten years taken apart and reassembled a dozen times). But also great for long term use on oil and gas applications Never seen a leak when using this stuff.

I had a pan and rocker cover set that after contact cementing gaskets in. I left them setting on the shelf gasket side down, they had a coating of this stuff on them and sat for 6 years pulled them loose from the shelf and installed them no leaks.

You used to be able to pick this up at any parts store but then some europe/us trade flap made it hard to buy, but is looking like it is back again in several US sources.

On assemblies that don't need routine assembly/reassembly, like the differential carrier, I would recommend Permatex "Right Stuff". Stupid name, great sealant. It is a rubber type product, no need for gasket. The only downside is it also has moderate adhesive qualities.

I used it for the differential carrier of my '50 COE five years ago where I could not find a gasket and hard to cut your own on something that big. Not even a seep so far. I understand some large equipment manufacturers use it OEM on things like oil pans and use it without gaskets.
Kent

I tried to jam string in but had difficulty prying the case apart. I was using a big flat screwdriver and a metal scraper for a wedge. The string went around maybe only halfway.

2 of the bottom bolts were loose which probably explains most of the leakage.

I am having the same problem. Can you simply unbolt the shaft side of the assembly and replace the seal without messing up any of the internal parts of the rear end?

If you pull the third member on a torque tube, you have the torque tube to deal with. Either take it loose at the transmission or move the housing back. If you loosen all of the bolts enough to get several wraps of cotton string around it, you can avoid a lot of work. You do not disturb any settings by removing the 3rd member no matter how you do it.

Thanks Crenwelge. Our entire rear axle and torque tube is out of the truck and lying on the floor. To be clear again, the section that is connected to the torque tube is the third member that you are referring to? Mine is leaking at the bolted joint on the opposite side from the rear cover. I just wanted to make sure that I wasn't about to regret this as I watched ball bearings come spilling out all over the floor.

I appreciate all the help. Thanks.