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| | | | Joined: Sep 2010 Posts: 100 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Sep 2010 Posts: 100 | Checked in the shop manual and cannot find an answer...
Is there a torque setting for tightening the two bolts on the thermostat housing after replacing both the thermostat and a new seal? | | | | | Joined: Jan 2000 Posts: 2,074 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Jan 2000 Posts: 2,074 | Most old shop manuals have torque specs and or a chart covering a general torque per size of bolt. I wouldn't be to concerned with torque on this part, just use some gasket sealer and make them tight with a not to long wrench. Also put some thread sealer on these bolt that go into water passage. | | | | | Joined: Aug 2005 Posts: 6,377 Ex Hall Monitor | | Ex Hall Monitor Joined: Aug 2005 Posts: 6,377 | Torque specs for the most part are not in the repair manual. That frustrates me as well. Sound advise above. Use gasket sealer and get'em good & snug. I don't think I've ever used a torque spec on a thermostat housing.
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| | | | | Joined: Sep 2001 Posts: 29,270 Bubba - Curmudgeon | | Bubba - Curmudgeon Joined: Sep 2001 Posts: 29,270 | Thermostat housing bolts/screws: 25-35 ft-lbs From 1960 Truck Shop Manual, Engine Section on-line | | | | | Joined: Sep 2010 Posts: 100 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Sep 2010 Posts: 100 | Thanks all...I appreciate the knowledgeable replies both past and future.
Tim
I found the 25-35 Ft pds information in a section for Chevy small blocks. I wonder if that can be applied to an older 216 stove bolt with cast iron thermostat housing? | | | | | Joined: Sep 2001 Posts: 29,270 Bubba - Curmudgeon | | Bubba - Curmudgeon Joined: Sep 2001 Posts: 29,270 | Thanks all...
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I found the 25-35 Ft pds information in a section for Chevy small blocks. I wonder if that can be applied to an older 216 stove bolt with cast iron thermostat housing? That is the same type of housing used in 1960 - the year of the sheet that I posted a link-to, above. Here is the torque-specs page. | | | | | Joined: Mar 2010 Posts: 10,299 Renaissance Man | | Renaissance Man Joined: Mar 2010 Posts: 10,299 | Grandpa always said to "stop tightening well before it starts getting looser". But then he also was known to say, "tighten it as tight as you can, plus 1/4 turn".
25-35# sounds right to me.
Carl
1952 5-window - return to "as built" condition | 1950 3100 with a 235 and a T-5 transmission
| | | | | Joined: Dec 2000 Posts: 3,399 Gas Pumper | | Gas Pumper Joined: Dec 2000 Posts: 3,399 | My Grandpa always said "Don't take any wooden nickels". I have NO idea, but I just use my 25-30# calibrated hand. But the specs are very handy to have for a really well done engine.
That is the WHOLE reason why I go strictly by the specs using my $9.95 Harbor Freight Torque Wrench! LOL! | | | | | Joined: Sep 2001 Posts: 29,270 Bubba - Curmudgeon | | Bubba - Curmudgeon Joined: Sep 2001 Posts: 29,270 | Do not underestimate that HF torque wrench. Several years ago, I found an auto-engineering website that checked the calibration of a newly-calibrated Snap-On torque-wrench against a newly bought HF torque wrench. The HF wrench was as close to the correct torque (over a range of torques) as was the Snap-On wrench.
I did own test comparison with a friend's newly calibrated torque wrench compared to my never calibrated (but, rarely used) HF torque wrench. My wrench was +/- within 5% of the Snap-On wrench (over a range torque settings.
I tighten to the specs, if I have them. | | | | | Joined: Sep 2010 Posts: 100 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Sep 2010 Posts: 100 | | | |
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