The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area The Tool Chest Will this work for an engine stand?

I've read some old threads that talk about how topple-prone stovebolt are on a stand. This looks better than those three leg things, but need some advice. Rated for 750 lbs and listed on CL.

Stand

It appears to be patterned after this one.

http://www.amazon.com/OTC-1726A-Capacity-Engine-Stand/dp/B002YKTW4O

They are much more stable than the 3 leg things.

I use one of these.

http://www.amazon.com/OTC-1735B-Heavy-Duty-Motor-Rotor-Repair/dp/B00ILVNOG2


It was designed to grab engines from the side and it works very well on my Y-Blocks. When I do a GMC, I bolt on to the back of the motor as well as the front. I think an adapter for the front can be built for the one you are looking at. It is really nice working on an engine that is supported on either 2 sides or both ends.

Think it will be safe enough to use?

JW51, while I don't specifically like it, I am currently using a 3 wheel engine stand. Currently I have a 283 on one stand and a 261 6cyl. engine on another. It is however not one of the "cheap" ones. Its a heavier duty one than most sold at discount houses today.

Just be/think safe no matter what you use.

JW51 Depending on how much they are asking for I would snag this one...

http://www.harborfreight.com/1000-lb-capacity-engine-stand-69520.html

I just picked one up and if you aren't already on their text list you get a 20% off coupon.

Put it together in about 20 minutes and it is currently holding a promising sbc 350 candidate at the moment.

It has been posted many times that the stovebolt engine is a long and relatively heavy engine, you will have to be very careful when rolling an engine around in one of those 750lb or 1000lb stands. I have one that I do not move, and I gave one away.

This stand is sturdier and much more stable. It is safe and easy for rolling around and for rotating an engine. I do not remember ever having problems using a shop crane to move a engine onto and off of this stand.

If you are careful and if you do not plan to roll the engine much/often, those lighter stands might be OK. Move the engine by pulling from/on the front of the engine and be very careful when turning.

Tim,
I like that stand. Affordable too.

I had just bought this 2000lb stand last week wanted the sturdy unit to hold my 235. I have a nice NAPA stand that has done well for V8s, but just not in favor of it for a long I6.

Make sure to snag a 20% off coupon and it gets the price down to about $112 (depending on tax). I keep three or four on hand always.


The only thing left to add to it is DEVE's engine plate, making a real sweet rig.

Get the one Tim mentions. Its the one I have and am very very happy with it. Some stands, the engine bobs around while rolling it. This one is rock stable. You get the idea.

Also, look carefully at this pic and notice how much wider I made the wings than the bellhousing. Its important to the design for it to be wider. (the line drawn with sharpie)

http://devestechnet.com/Images/Projects/Project1959235/Project59235333lg.jpg

Looks like someone trusted those engine stands enough to make a rotisserie using 2 of them. Here is the CL advert.

Someone snagged it before I could. Had the guy talked down to 25 bucks, but it wasn't meant to be.

Why?

Also, do you have any pics of after you welded it?

I am maybe being overcautious Mark, but wider gives those wings a little more stability I would think. I can't imagine a scenario where they would twist, but I would feel better having them a bit wider. Especially if I am the one suggesting the plan!

http://devestechnet.com/Images/Projects/Project1959235/Project59235343lg.jpg

http://devestechnet.com/Images/Projects/Project1959235/Project59235347lg.jpg

If its pictures of my welding job you are looking for, I haven't taken any closeups of the weld. I beveled the outside of the tube heavily so I could get lots of weld there, then ground it flat. The inside weld is single pass. I was going to do a double pass, but with a 220 mig on its max setting and the wire speed I used, it all came out really nice the first time.

Wider IS better! Just wondering if you had a reason beyond the obvious.

Your thoughts on insetting your tube, maybe an 1/8", to make a full weld that you wouldn't have to grind along with your outer fillet weld? This way you would still have 3/8" tube contact on the 1/2" plate with weld on both sides.

Great work! It's always a pleasure to make tools that work better and will last longer than what you could find on a shelf!

I THOUGHT about the idea of offsetting the tubing a bit, as you said. In fact most of the things you see are done that way. But how many people do you know have the patience to use a 3 inch hole saw on 1/2 inch steel? LOL! So, I took the time to bevel the tube which served the same purpose as simply backing it off an 8th. LOL!

Time and oil!

My last patience exercise was a 5" hole saw along with 2" by 3 holes to make a gauge cluster for the dash. That or fly cutting a motor plate hole.

I use grocery store spray on Canola oil. I couldn't believe it when it was suggested but its perfect for that. I didn't even ruin the hole saw! I am not a fan of the hole saw in general. Wish there were better ways with limited resources to cut a hole.

I read through the responses quickly and I don't know for sure if anyone answered your original post! I would use that stand, IF the wheels were not buggered up, and then would use two people to move the engine short distances on level, good quality, smooth cement. When going over the purchase flip the stand to its side and check the wheels, if unoiled or balky, ask the guy for some oil and see if the bearings are shot. If you had to buy good quality wheels that would be $40 or so, might as well go with one of the new ones suggested. If ok in the bearing dept look at all the welds carefully, any re welds, poor welds walk away even if he's selling for a song. I like that lower gusset, could be a higher quality stand.

I bought a used heavier duty stand and the mounting area was really buggered up, our own Grigg spent a
good hour making it right, btw he's a certified machinist.

My lesson is check new OR used carefully.

Thanks, Cosmo. I missed out on that one but good to know that style will work.

I made my own engine stand years ago, heavy duty and like Cosmo says, good wheels. Dad built our cherry picker as a three wheel at first, then added a rear stableizer bar latter to make it more stable.
Had them both in KC last fall for the motor teardown clinic.
We tore down a ford small block, explained what to look for and how to inspect.
Alvin could not keep his hands off of it.
http://s160.photobucket.com/user/st...005_zps9e3a78bd.jpg.html?sort=6&o=11

Don