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Joined: Dec 2005
Posts: 23
M
New Guy
New Guy
M Offline
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I am trying to adjust the cab and doghouse on my 1952 Chevy 1/2ton. Please see video to understand the alignment issue.
Here is a video: youtube

Is there a method better than others?

Joined: Sep 2010
Posts: 252
P
Shop Shark
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I really hope someone answers with a suggestion. I have EXCATLY the same problem with my '51 hood and cannot figure who to resolve the problem. The hood appears to be too short!!
Maybe I need to rent a hood stretcher(?).


1951 Chevy 3100 5-Window
"Howard"
In the Stovebolt Gallery
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Posts: 29,269
Bubba - Curmudgeon
Bubba - Curmudgeon
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I have found the information at these two links to be helpful.

http://chevy.oldcarmanualproject.com/shop/1948_51truck/51ctsm1104.htm

http://www.stovebolt.com/techtips/bodywork/ad_hood_alignment.html

If you believe in prayer, exercise that belief often and fervently.

Along with prayer, or without it, a wide variety of exotic words/phrases are also helpful.

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M
New Guy
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Thanks Tim. I do indeed believe that God answers prayer. That is how I got to this forum ! smile

Thanks for the article links. That is a great help.

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M
New Guy
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Peter, did you replace the front floor pans and cab supports?

I am going to start shimming the back cab mounts and front radiator support to help draw the hood closer to the cowl.

After I read the great info that Tim sent. Follow instructions ..... yup smile

Joined: Mar 2010
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5
Renaissance Man
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Unless you guys have repaired a lot of cab or front clip damage and it didn't go so well, you should not have to alter the cab height via the cab mounts away from factory specs. If you change away from specs, you will create brake, clutch, and accelerator pedal nightmares.
I have built a number of Frankenstein ADs and have run into your problem many times. The following should get you lined up.
-You need to put the grille in place. It plays a part in the overall alignment.
-You need to loosen EVERY SINGLE NUT AND BOLT from the toe board forward. ALL OF THEM including the ones which attach the grille to the front clip.
I would suggest that you completely remove the bolts which hold the rear of the inner fenders to the toe board and parking brake bracket. This will allow you to move the fenders fore and aft much easier. You can easily put those bolts back in last, as they do not affect alignment.
-Tighten or loosen the fender skirt-to-dash support rod nuts to move the fender fore or aft.
-As you move the front clip forward or rearward to line up the hood with the fenders, be sure to lift the rear of the fenders at the cowl area to close the gap under the hood side.
-Tighten the fender-to-cowl bolts first.
-Keep checking the alignment between the hood with front clip as you continue tightening the rest of the nuts and bolts.

Hope that helps getting you where you need to be.
Carl


1952 5-window - return to "as built" condition | 1950 3100 with a 235 and a T-5 transmission
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'Bolter
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Post a couple videos of your progress and solutions. These things require time and more patience than I can muster at times. 52Carl's note is good advice.

Last edited by tom moore; 05/23/2015 1:33 AM.

1946 GMC Project
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Shop Shark
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Thank you for the replies. I really didn't think that there was any magic solution but, if you don't ask ....
I didn't take enough before pictures before I dismantled my truck but, the few I have do show it fitting better and what I have accomplished.
I will loosen it all completely and approach it with some patience this time.
I'll let you know how it goes.


1951 Chevy 3100 5-Window
"Howard"
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'Bolter
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We have a shop that has worked on AD panel alignment for many years and here is our procedure. First remove every hinge and latch along with strikers, spring loaded hood prop arms, and anything else that fits between the hood or doors and the body. Now set each panel in place and see if it fits the hole.If it doesn't then there is core support shimming or cab shimming that needs to be done. If the doors and hood fit right then add ONE thing at a time and check for fit. If the hinges throw the alignment off then they are the problem. Ditto on latches, strikers, support arms, or anything else. You are no longer guessing but rather isolating the problem.









Evan
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New Guy
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You guys are amazing ! Your suggestions have given me a breath of fresh air.

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New Guy
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52Carl, you mentioned factory shims. Do you know where I can find the factory shim amounts and thicknesses?

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Renaissance Man
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Originally Posted by mr_mahoney
52Carl, you mentioned factory shims. Do you know where I can find the factory shim amounts and thicknesses?
I don't know that I mentioned factory shims. If you are talking about setting up the cab mounts to the proper height from the frame, you can make your own. The front ones are large washers and rubber pads, the back ones are rectangular steel with two holes and go between the shackles and the bottom of the floor.
Carl


1952 5-window - return to "as built" condition | 1950 3100 with a 235 and a T-5 transmission
Joined: Dec 2005
Posts: 23
M
New Guy
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I am grateful for the all the excellent help on this. I have made a new post of a video on fender gap at the cab. I am stumped on this one. post link


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