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#1103505 05/19/2015 3:15 AM
Joined: Jul 2005
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Shop Shark
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My son and I just picked up a 1965 K10 with a 292. Story is it died on way home to PO house three years ago. Wouldn't start again so he parked it.

Came with basically all new engine accessories/wires/carb/pump... Anyway we are just getting into it and haven't done any formal electrical testing but one odd thing is that the condenser is hooked to the coil where the wire from the starter comes in. On my other vehicles they are next to the points. May that be the whole reason it won't run right there? Jumping the gun with this since we haven't had time to explore or take things apart.

My next step, since it's easy, is to replace the coil with one I have laying around.

Last edited by 641Workmaster; 05/19/2015 3:26 AM.

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1924 Ford Model T Fordor
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Kettle Custodian (pot stirrer)
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Check inside the distributor cap and see if there's another condenser in there. Sometimes an AM radio noise suppression condenser was attached to the (+) side of the coil, and/or on the generator armature terminal. They're not essential to making the engine run. If the ignition condenser is connected to the coil(+) instead of the(-) terminal or inside the dizzy, the points will burn out in a very short time.
Jerry


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Shop Shark
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Tonight we messed around with it more by taking the distr. cap off and checking voltage. Was getting a barely discernible orange flash at the points. Put a different condenser in with no change. Then decided to sand the points. Nice hot spark now!

With a little starting fluid we were able to get it running. Ran it around the yard for about 15 minutes until our gallon gas can ran low. Burns a little oil but sounded nice.


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'Bolter
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Some "new" points come with a coating(to prevent corrosion during shipping) Not helpful if not removed. Good find. Smoking a bit with engine sitting for a long time is Not a big deal. Let the rings get happy in the piston grooves and re-seat in the cylinder. Some folks add Marvel Mystery Oil to the oil, and some use diesel mixed in the crankcase. Both will help "un-stick" the rings. But if you use diesel then only run at idle and drain after. New detergent oils are just fine. If it gets better, cool. If not, then look for blow by. You will see it if it is bad. If no blow by then drive until it needs a rebuild. If the oil pressure is good, and it still smokes, then you might get by with a re-ring job. Cheap and dirty fix. If the cylinders are not ridged at the top. If the cylinders are worn, well then you get to do it up right. Every inline 6 I have played with is one tough motor and will work for a long time.


Steve H

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