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#1101713 05/09/2015 3:29 PM
Joined: Nov 2012
Posts: 185
K
'Bolter
'Bolter
K Offline
Joined: Nov 2012
Posts: 185
When I purchased my 1952 Chevy 1/2 pick-up it was already converted to a V-8 setup. They fashioned a front motor mount out of 1/4" plate and they offset the mount to the passenger side so the engine sets more towards the passenger side to provide clearance for the steering box and exhaust manifold. Was planning on replacing this engine and installing side engine mounts to straighten this up and make it right. Has anyone moved a steering box towards the driver side just a hair and what would this entail, thanks HUGH

kahoys #1101732 05/09/2015 6:11 PM
Joined: May 2006
Posts: 8,351
L
'Bolter
'Bolter
L Offline
Joined: May 2006
Posts: 8,351
I've seen it done on a '49 1 ton I helped put together, had to move it over 2 1/2 inches the clear the exhaust manifolds. If it's already setup to have the engine offset, and it clears, I would leave it alone. Moving the steering box will cause issues with the steering, mainly making the box off center and the drag link will rub on a left hand turn. also, the column will have to either be shifted over by the same amount, which looks very odd in the cab, or it will have to be angled to center it, which makes for an awkward driving position. Having the engine offset will not hurt a thing, even the oems do it, the Chevrolet Astro/GMC Safari vans and the Dodge Dakota/Durango for example, to get clearance for the steering. I have also seen a few oem with angled steering columns, mostly GM X body cars, makes for a very weird driving experience if you're not used to it.


Bill Burmeister
kahoys #1101758 05/09/2015 9:29 PM
Joined: Nov 2012
Posts: 185
K
'Bolter
'Bolter
K Offline
Joined: Nov 2012
Posts: 185
Really didn't want to go and disturb something that was working fine in the first place, was just asking since I was planning on replacing this motor anyways and trying to straighten things up and make them right as I go along. From what I can gather by reading offset engine installation on the internet as long as it was done right with no vibrations felt while driving it should be good as is. Also I have a question, it has the front engine mount with a rear cross member mount holding the rear of the transmission with no other anchor point in between. Will this put undo stress where the bell housing bolts to the engine and where the flywheel bolts to torque converter as these are the only two areas holding the engine and transmission together right? Just seems like there should be something else in the middle to hold and support it. Thanks HUGH

kahoys #1101781 05/10/2015 12:25 AM
Joined: Dec 2013
Posts: 54
S
Wrench Fetcher
Wrench Fetcher
S Offline
Joined: Dec 2013
Posts: 54
When I put a v8 in my '50 I used the old horse shoe style mount in front and cross member mounts on either side of the bell housing (standard chevy truck bell) and tranny hangs off the bell.

I haven't seen it first hand, but doing some reading on multiple sites suggests that using a front mount and tranny tail housing mount is too much stress and can/does crack bell housings.

Hope that helps.


Tim
1950 3600 Some Pictures
1951 3100
1952 3100 Some Pictures
kahoys #1101899 05/10/2015 5:53 PM
Joined: Nov 2012
Posts: 185
K
'Bolter
'Bolter
K Offline
Joined: Nov 2012
Posts: 185
Not really sure when this conversion was done as the guy I bought it from also purchased it this way and he had it for about 9 years. I have owned it for another 3 1/2 years and upon a closer inspection conducted this morning with a good eye and a flashlight of the bell housing there is no outward appearance of any cracks or damage. Of course I did not tear it down so there could be cracks or damage not seen by the naked eye. I have combed this forum and it seems a lot of Bolters are asking this same question regarding this conversion. I am going to look around and see if there is a mount that can be attached to the frame to shore up this middle area where engine meets transmission. Thanks HUGH

kahoys #1102067 05/11/2015 4:13 PM
Joined: Feb 2004
Posts: 29,742
H
Kettle Custodian (pot stirrer)
Kettle Custodian (pot stirrer)
H Offline
Joined: Feb 2004
Posts: 29,742
Some of the race cars I've built use a 1/4" thick aluminum plate between the block and the bellhousing with engine mounts adapted to it. It's necessary to use a longer pilot bushing on standard shift applications or use 1/4" thick washers between the flex plate and the torque converter on automatic transmission cars to use that setup.
Jerry


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kahoys #1104278 05/23/2015 3:22 AM
Joined: Nov 2012
Posts: 185
K
'Bolter
'Bolter
K Offline
Joined: Nov 2012
Posts: 185
Hotrod Lincoln I have mulled over this process and while I think the mid point mount is a good idea. I went over to cars-on-line.com and looked at all the 47 - 54 Chevy trucks that had been modified for the SBC/TB350/700R4 SETUP. These are drivers and show trucks and all of them have only regular side motor mounts and a tail mount. Think I will go this route as well with one exception I will keep my front mount so that will give me 3 solid mounting areas along this assembly. I will also install one of those drive shaft safety rings that protects the front of the driveshaft from coming in contact with the road in the event of a universal joint or u-bolt failure, had this happen once coming to a stop light, thank goodness with foot on brake I was only coasting less than 10 mph when disaster struck, Thanks HUGH

Last edited by kahoys; 05/25/2015 1:22 AM.

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