The Stovebolt Site Forums The Parking Lot Big Bolts 1948 -4100 driver

I'm trying to make a daily driver out of my old 1 1/2T truck. Kind of a rat rod dually. I have a 3/4T box and am going to shorten and Z the frame behind the cab to 127.5". Also remove overloads and some main leafs.
Will a 55-64 bell housing work for a 327 upgrade and a T5 trans update.
With the 8.25x20 tires on back, the 5.43 gear, the T5 .72 O.D. It should turn about 2600rpm@ 65mph.
How to lower the front end? Z the frame or put axle on top of the springs and notch the frame?
Need to rebuild the drum brakes as well

doubt if the bell housing will work for the 327/T5 thing. If you're not going to haul anything with it,Patrick's Antique Parts,(in the "Links" section),sells single leaf spring kits. I wouldn't trust old spring components,especially if they're separated from the stock configuration. Z,and or nothching the frame,should be done by a professional welder,NOT a backyard mechanic! You need to know how to gusset the frame for strength,but not to the point that it's too rigid. I'd find a newer 1-ton frame,with I.F.S.,and disc brakes. (These trucks were designed to go 55 M.P.H. TOP speed,so the stock drum brakes may stop the truck,but not in a safe distance).Shorten the coils,install air bags and the front end is done,(besides plumbing). Probably install 4-link at the rear. have a professional shop do the framework,if it needs it. This is life and death,if you don't know what you're doing. Be SAFE, have FUN,and GOOD LUCK!!

This is getting away from the topic of springs and frames, but is something I have wondered about. There seems to be much emphasis on converting to disc brakes, and it would help to know why. My simple minded thought is that, until the day of pulsing brakes under electronic control, a tire locked by a drum brake stops the same as a tire locked by a disc brake. I expect that proportioning valves on newer systems help prevent the problem of locking rear truck wheels (because of less weight unless loaded) while front wheels are still turning, but this is not a drum vs. disc issue. I really have no idea about differences in brake fading because of heat buildup, but this is not an issue for most "daily driving." Also, even I understand the benefit of having separate front and rear brake lines (and have done this on my 64 GMC pickup), but this is still not a drum vs. disc brake issue. So what is the great advantage that one gets for the time, effort, and cost of switching to disc brakes?

JRMunn

this is what I was thinking of but not chopped[URL=http://s1147.photobucket.com/user/actionjackson7/media/dually_zpszeqqxbur.jpg.html][IMG]http://i1147.photobucket.com/albums/o544/actionjackson7/dually_zpszeqqxbur.jpg[/IMG][/URL]

I am a professional Pipefitter/ welder. I would also think that a truck with 14" drum brakes would be able to stop alright assuming decent tires and competent welding skills on frame modifications. removing some of the leafs will soften the spring rate not make it unsafe if the leafs arn't broken or cracked.

This is what I was thinking of minus the top chop
[IMG]http://i1147.photobucket.com/albums/o544/actionjackson7/dually_zpszeqqxbur.jpg[/IMG]

Now that is one cool truck! any more scoop on it?

You can lower the front end with a drop axle which would be much cooler than a modern independent.There is some companies, like Sids, that will drop your existing front axle.You don't need disk brakes, all large rigs carry heavy loads every day at highway speeds with only drum brakes. You could add a front sway bar for better handling.

One option is Patrick's monoleaf front springs. I put those on my '48 3100. It lowers the front end 4 inches and gives you the same benefits of a sway bar. http://www.patricksantiquecars.com/products.html