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#1097064 04/12/2015 9:33 PM
Joined: Sep 2010
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'Bolter
'Bolter
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Hi Everyone,

I've started the actual rebuild of the brake system on my 1953 3100. I started with the right rear brake assembly. I would appreciate everyone taking a look at the pics and let me know if it looks like it is supposed to look. I know that sounds a little weird or that I'm lacking confidence, but this is the very first time that I've done this. So I guess I do lack self confidence! Anyway, here are the pics:

Overall view of brake assembly

Rear shoe hold down

Shoe adjuster

Front shoe hold down and anti rattle spring

Return Springs

Sorry that the pics are a little blurry.

My concerns really revolve around two things: 1. Are the pieces put back together correctly? 2. Are the return springs seated well enough or will they work loose during operation? It just seemed to me that they should have been sitting a little deeper behind the post.

Go ahead and give me the bad news if I did it incorrectly. I want these to be right, so no pride here, just be gentle.

Thanks for looking!


Mike
1953 3100
The Gray Ghost
My Project journal
Joined: Feb 2004
Posts: 29,774
H
Kettle Custodian (pot stirrer)
Kettle Custodian (pot stirrer)
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Posts: 29,774
The assembly looks OK, and the high ride on the return spring over the anchor post is normal. The anchor post is tapered, so the outside spring rides higher. It's also assembled correctly with the rear shoe return spring to the outside. That increases the tension on the secondary shoe spring just a little, and also provides an anti-rattle effect by pushing the springs back against the plate over the tops of the shoes. I'd suggest taking a pair of pliers and squeezing the spring eyes shut a little to keep them from jumping off the anchor stud. Have fun!
Jerry


"It is better to be silent and be thought a fool than to speak and eliminate all doubt!" - Abraham Lincoln
Cringe and wail in fear, Eloi- - - - -we Morlocks are on the hunt!
There is nothing noble in being superior to your fellow man; true nobility is being superior to your former self. - Ernest Hemingway
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L
'Bolter
'Bolter
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The springs and hardware look like they're in ok. However, you have the shoes on backwards if that's the right side. The long shoe should be at the rear of the brake assembly, and the short show goes to the front. Not really a big deal, just need to swap their positions. It's actually quite common to see that happen, even among "mechanics" claiming to be "professionals".


Bill Burmeister
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G
'Bolter
'Bolter
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He sits at computer with dejected look on face.... Those springs were really hard to get on!!! Oh well, I'll chalk it up to a learning experience.

Thank you for taking a look! I'll post a "victory" pic next weekend after I swap the shoes around!


Mike
1953 3100
The Gray Ghost
My Project journal
Joined: May 2006
Posts: 8,351
L
'Bolter
'Bolter
L Offline
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What kind of tools were you using to remove/install the springs?


Bill Burmeister
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G
'Bolter
'Bolter
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I was using one of those multi tool brake tools from my flaps.

Brake tool

Instruction said to use the end with the groove carved out and roll the spring onto the post. Was easier said that done, as those springs were brand new and tight!


Mike
1953 3100
The Gray Ghost
My Project journal
Joined: May 2006
Posts: 8,351
L
'Bolter
'Bolter
L Offline
Joined: May 2006
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Ok, just was curious if you had the proper tool for the job. Once you get the hang of it, that tool isn't too bad to use. It's certainly easier than trying to use a screwdriver or other similar tool to get the springs on.


Bill Burmeister
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G
'Bolter
'Bolter
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Now I've got to figure out how to use the other end of the tool to get them off again! Oh the joy of it. headscratch


Mike
1953 3100
The Gray Ghost
My Project journal
Joined: May 2005
Posts: 8,983
B
Sir Searchalot
Sir Searchalot
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Just to be sure I read you right and you read the instructions right. Regarding the picture of your tool. One of the lower arms in pic is for installing spring (right hand arm in pic) and the other lower arm in pic is for removal (left hand arm in pic).
Left hand barrel is twisted/rotated to release spring from post.(one way for one spring, other way for other spring). Right hand is used to install by attaching one end of spring to shoe and sliding other end of spring down the tool arm and over post by placing arm into spring hook and at the same time placing end of tool (groove) over post and lift and move arm at proper angle to cause spring to slide onto post.
I use the upper two arms to install self adjuster spring. There is a separate tool for the shoe retainers/hold downs.


Right is right, even if everyone is against it, and wrong is wrong, even if everyone is for it. - William Penn
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Kettle Custodian (pot stirrer)
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Good catch on the front/rear shoe length- - -I was looking at as if it was the driver' side brake.

The plier-shaped end of that tool is for working on Lockheed brakes (early Ford and Chrysler) with one long spring across the top, attached to both shoes.
Jerry


"It is better to be silent and be thought a fool than to speak and eliminate all doubt!" - Abraham Lincoln
Cringe and wail in fear, Eloi- - - - -we Morlocks are on the hunt!
There is nothing noble in being superior to your fellow man; true nobility is being superior to your former self. - Ernest Hemingway
Love your enemies and drive 'em nuts!
Joined: Sep 2010
Posts: 492
G
'Bolter
'Bolter
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You got it! I was using the long, untwisted end (on the right in the pic) for installing the springs. Still, being new springs they were very difficult to get over the post and in place. I'm actually a bit worried about taking them off next weekend. Worried that I might lose control of them and send them flying into something, like my skull. So I think I'll add a face shield in addition to my safety glasses when I do the removal! Better safe than sorry. I am decidedly uncool at this stage, I think I'll take them apart piece by piece and try to get it right this time. chug


Mike
1953 3100
The Gray Ghost
My Project journal
Joined: May 2005
Posts: 8,983
B
Sir Searchalot
Sir Searchalot
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Yes it is hard to do sometimes. You need to tap on the spring to get it to go down the arm. Good Job!


Right is right, even if everyone is against it, and wrong is wrong, even if everyone is for it. - William Penn
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G
'Bolter
'Bolter
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Thank you for that last bit of info (tapping the spring to get it to go down the arm)! I thought I was just being a bubba when I was doing that today! Glad to hear it's normal!


Mike
1953 3100
The Gray Ghost
My Project journal
Joined: Mar 2002
Posts: 9,115
'Bolter
'Bolter
Joined: Mar 2002
Posts: 9,115
I thought it was the driver's side too but in one photo I can see where the emergency brake cable is attached to the arm, on the left of the photo.


1951 GMC 1 Ton Flatbed -- It is finally on the road and what a great time I have driving it!
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My Chevy Master 4 Door is on the Road!
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5
Renaissance Man
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I use vise grip pliers and two-arm muscle the springs on and off. I could never get the hang of the specialty tool without gouging up the shoe.
Carl


1952 5-window - return to "as built" condition | 1950 3100 with a 235 and a T-5 transmission
Joined: Sep 2001
Posts: 29,269
Bubba - Curmudgeon
Bubba - Curmudgeon
Joined: Sep 2001
Posts: 29,269

Carl's advice is good advice.

I practiced using the spring tool for sliding on the spring and the other end for removing the spring. Most of the time it works like a charm. When it does not work, I save my special incantations (#$@&%*!) and use a vise-grip pliers.

use of the tool - spring removal and spring installation (probably also shown at a link above)

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'Bolter
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Awesome video! I liked the "hat cam", too. He made using the tool look very easy. Either way, easy or hard, I'm going to be back at it next weekend and I'll post my results then. Wish me luck!


Mike
1953 3100
The Gray Ghost
My Project journal

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