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Joined: May 2010
Posts: 132
S
Wrench Fetcher
Wrench Fetcher
S Offline
Joined: May 2010
Posts: 132
Hi all,

I've been thinking about this for a long time, and finally got it together and all done this weekend.

I wanted a secure, inside-the-cab hood release, so here are my build notes and pictures.

First, remove the front radiator cowl and hood latch, and make these cuts:

First cut the big cowling piece here

and cut the Latch piece here

Set them back together creating an open space

like this

Grind off the latch rivit and hammer pound it flat.
Cut it into two pieces, and place it together.
Original hole A, will need to be fattened up to match the size of the hole in the latch plate.
When you get it in place, mark where hole B will be drilled, the same size as A. C bolts together.

Drilled Flattened Latch Pieces

On the bottom side of the small piece, countersink the hole C. You will use a flat head bolt in here to hold these latch pieces together.

countersink latch piece

Bolt these two halves together now, and tighten the bolt.

latch pieces bolted together

Then your latch handle piece looks like this

new latch handle

Find a bolt that is the same size as the hole in the latch plate, and will fit your new latch, now that you drilled the latch hole bigger. Put the bolt up through the latch plate and add a washer, and some grease

bolt with washer

add a gob-o-grease

Install your new latch handle, and another gob-o-grease

install handle

Put another washer and nut. tighten down the first nut just until the handle doesn't wiggle. Add a lockwasher and another nut, and tighten them against each other.

locknut

Don't forget to drill a hole at the end of the lever arm

lever arm hole

Completed latch assembly, ready to install

completed latch assembly

I added an S hook at the end of the latch. I thought about an adjustable turn-buckle, but didn't have one laying around today. But I might add that later on.

latch handle S hook

Drill a hole through the radiator bracket

radiator bracket hole

Next, fatty up the hole in the corner of the radiator bracket. Don't drill into your wires running through there.

radiator bracket corner hole

Now it looks like this

radiator bracket

Put a bolt with a nut, up through the existing hole in the bracket.

nut and bolt

ready for a clamp

Drill a hole in the firewall. Not at the X. Better out toward the driver's side. I removed the hood springs a long time ago, but if you have springs, just drill centered below them.

Drill through the firewall here

Then drill an appropriate size hole in this handy bracket.

handy bracket

I got a six foot all purpose cable from my local FLAPS
for less than $7.00. ( see, almost free! )

Generic Cable release, six foot. Shorten, cut to fit later

Take the nut all the way off, then put the release cable only through the handy brake bracket, and then put the nut back on. Finger tight is gonna be good enough, because it's too cramped for a wrench. then poke the cable trough the firewall, run it along the fender, and through the radiator bracket holes.

run the cable like this. clamp to fender bolt at arrow

poke it through the radiator bracket holes, and clamp here, too

cable routing and clamp

then a quick spray paint, if you're so inclined...

quick toot-o-paint

Then, later, or tomorrow, flip the whole assembly over and attach the cable to the S hook in the latch.

attach cable

Now attach the super security metal panel, by adding nuts to the same screws that come down holding the latch panel to the cowl piece.

nobody's gonna get in here!

Bolt the entire assembly in place. It should work now.

all back together

oops, forgot. Drill a hole, or cut, to make space for the hood latch pin to clear as it pokes down through

drill or cut for latch pin clearance

Carefully close the hood, and give it a try!

Here . . . Pull on this

Nobody will be able to just reach up there and pull or push your super secure latch handle.

super secure latch cover

super secure latch handle cover two

Video. Check it out.

It Works!


You can view all the pics all at once in my photobucket

All the pics all in one place. Inside Hood Release














































Joined: May 2005
Posts: 8,983
B
Sir Searchalot
Sir Searchalot
B Offline
Joined: May 2005
Posts: 8,983
Good job Scot. Very innovative.


Right is right, even if everyone is against it, and wrong is wrong, even if everyone is for it. - William Penn
Joined: Mar 2010
Posts: 10,308
5
Renaissance Man
Renaissance Man
5 Offline
Joined: Mar 2010
Posts: 10,308
I bet I can still get in. Just need to push on the tab which comes up through the latch plate on the top?
Easy enough to fix.


1952 5-window - return to "as built" condition | 1950 3100 with a 235 and a T-5 transmission
Joined: Jul 2005
Posts: 2,031
C
Shop Shark
Shop Shark
C Offline
Joined: Jul 2005
Posts: 2,031

Last edited by carolines truck; 03/30/2015 7:43 PM.

Jim & Caroline
The highway is for gamblers, better use your good sense."
Gooday-that's my 1¢ answer due to the lousy economy ~ cause I ain't got - no . mo . doe

Every Shaver | Now Can Snore | Six More Minutes | Than Before ... | Half A Pound for Half a Dollar | Spread On Thin | Above the Collar || BURMA-SHAVE
Joined: Mar 2010
Posts: 10,308
5
Renaissance Man
Renaissance Man
5 Offline
Joined: Mar 2010
Posts: 10,308
After thinking about this mod, if I lived in an area where I had to worry about someone getting under the hood, I would strongly consider moving.
My question is, why are we worrying about someone getting under the hood? A serious thief will just pull your truck up on a rollback and ease on down the road.


1952 5-window - return to "as built" condition | 1950 3100 with a 235 and a T-5 transmission
Joined: Jan 2010
Posts: 378
R
Shop Shark
Shop Shark
R Offline
Joined: Jan 2010
Posts: 378
Scot, that is a real nice job. It takes some thinking to do something like that. Maybe you could sell the idea to someone. They would make all the parts with written directions and you could rake in the cash. Really, I think you did a nice job. Steven


1949 Chevy 1/2-Ton ~ Red Truck

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