The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area Paint and Body Shop Floor Pan replacement

Living in Lovely winterpeg manitoba has taken its toll on my old truck. Somebody must have installed new floorpans into thier old advanced design. What was it like? Any other chronic rustout places to look for on the old girl? Anyone looking to give away some floorpans?
thanks, ollie

what year?
are you in the process of restoring?
is the cab off?
more detail please!~!!

Well, if it is the complete front floor pans, then you have to consider the surrounding metal. There are cross member peices attached underneath that hold the front cab mounts, rockerpanels, toe board and inner kick panels. That is the short list. I am doing the complete list so that is how I can remember!

well.....
I am getting ready to do the driver side of my truck.

There are several holes so that I can not replace individually so it looks like the whole side will get cut out and redone.

I have the cab sitting on the frame but it is not bolted down. Since I will be ctiin out one og the cab mounts I think if the other 3 are intact and bolted it may force the cab to tweak some.

I bought a MIG welder in January and I am practicing with it. I have been running beads on anything I can get my hands on. I am not using gas at this point. I have welded a few pirced of 1/2 inch square tube together and yesterday i welded some trimmings from a patch panel together that I could not break apart so I thinkI am getting dangerously close to being able to do the floor.

I plan to break/cut the spot welds between the toeboard and the floor pan. Then cut from the toeboard to the seat fram along the trans opening.

I I will do my best to document and place my results here.

I have never welded anything important before ant this is my first truck so If I am able to get this done with no bodily harm to me or the truck anyone can.

Here are some shots of my courageous battle with rust!

http://community.webshots.com/user/fnixon1

If this is a cab with the two shackles at the rear, you could attach a temporary brace on the front side of the firewall, resting on the frame. That is how mine is supported. It is imprtant to make sure that the rear of the cab clearance to the frame at the rear, is the same on both sides.

The main thing to look out for is to make sure the doors still fit after you do all your adjustments. Fit the doors, then brace the cab by tacking braces across the doorways before you take the bottom off the cab. That should keep the doorways square so you can fit the doors back up when you put the cab back on the frame.