The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area Driveline Tie rod ends

I need suggestions for outer tie rod ends. My right one just popped off. The tie rod itself also looks a bit bent. Is that normal or should i get that too? Are there other make/model ones that will fit?

Truck is '63 Gmc 100 with a 235 swap.

Does the truck have these adjustable sleeves? If the sleeve is bent, no need to replace the tie rod. The tie rod ends and sleeves can be had at most vendors. This is a picture of the sleeve:
http://www.classicindustries.com/product/1963/truck/parts/es312s.html
Good luck with your truck.

Thanks. The ones I'm looking for look like this:
http://fcrcmachine.com/i-14212958-r...-gmc-trucks-1933-1936-pontiac-25128.html
Problem is they're well over $100. If I can swap to something that will be cheaper to maintain, I don't mind making a slightly more expensive investment up front. There also may be rebuild kits, but so far everything I've pulled off this truck has been pretty rusty...

Are you sure it's a 63 model? That type of tie rod end was obsolete by then, IIRC. It's possible to upgrade to a more modern design without the ball and adjustable internals if you get the thread and taper right.
Jerry

OEM style tie rods for a '63 GMC are available at pretty much any parts store. If it's the earlier type (perhaps you meant to type "53 instead of '63? ), those are rebuildable. Most of the parts suppliers listed in the Links section have the kits, as well as upgrade tie rods that replace them if you want soemeting with lower maintainance . The rod itself is also available from several of them.

Darn my fat fingers! Yes, '53.

Tie rod repair kit, modern style replacement tie rod. The rebuild kits do not include the balls, those are sold separately. They're about $49 for a pair.

I would like to know how it popped off. I am wondering if the PO put it together incorrectly. I haven't heard of this happening before.

I would like to know as well. Judging by the bent nail holding in the threaded plug that goes in at the end and the lack of cotter pins on both front wheel bearings I would say safety was not a priority for the PO.

Sounds like it wasn't preloaded properly.

The Rare Parts "kit" contains the original style tie-rod end and a new ball/stud. $113 at Autozone (usually you can also find discount coupons).

That original style tie-rod end is adjustable and easily serviced.

If the ball is deformed, the "cups" in the tie rod end will be deformed. An original-style repair kit is shown at the link posted above by LONGBOX55. You will need new ends and ball/studs, so you might as well buy the whole assembly.

Or, use the less expensive modern-style sealed(non-adjustable) ends/studs.

It's sure starting to look like this truck is going to fight me the whole way... Today I was hoping to get the brakes done so I could move on to that sway bar and it turned out both bleeder screws on the rear wheel cylinders were broken. So, I spent the whole day trying to get them out and get the cylinders cleaned out so I could rebuild them, but it looks like I'm going to have to replace them. The master cylinder is also extremely corroded and I may but be able to rebuild it either. I pretty much feel like I wasted the whole day today

Just go with the replacement style tie-rod ends listed by longbox55 ( Bill). They are bolt in replacement and work very well. I swapped my '37 over to them and have been really happy with the way it drives. Prices vary, so shop around using the links section above.

If the truck isn't fighting you, what fun would it be to work on it?

Joe

Opinions on this kit:http://www.ecklerstrucks.com/chevy-truck-center-link-and-tie-rod-set-1947-1955-1st-series.html
It's only $40 more than just the new style ball joints and replaces what I believe is a bent tie rod.

Looks like it will fix both problems in one easy repair. Looks like money well spent.

Joe