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#108841 02/27/2004 1:23 AM
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I would like some input on sound deadner, I have some left over Reflectex(tm) insulation, which is two layers of aluminium with a 5/16 double ply bubble wrap dead air space. I was thinking of useing this behind all of my panels. Has anybody used this. Also I was wondering if the tar (that I am scapping off)inside door and below the rear window is waterproofing or was it used as sound deadner. P.S. Would have posted in the interior section but nobody seams to stop by there. Thanks Stuart

#108842 02/27/2004 2:59 AM
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I used a sheet (roll) sound deadner from J.C. Whitney. It came on a roll, you cut off what you needed. It was also self-adhering. You peeled off the protective covering to expose the adhesive and stick it in place.

I put it inside the doors, floorboard, back of the cab, and inside the roof. I wish I had put some on the firewall, but I already had my firewall pad in place.

Over the sound deadner I placed insulation I got from LMC truck. It is foil faced on both sides with a jute layer in between. Comes on a roll, cut to fit and used spray adhesive.

Both helped to quiet the inside of the truck down temendously.

I wouldn't recommend the bubble insulation. If the bubbles somehow get broken, you will lose all the insulating value.

#108843 02/27/2004 4:57 AM
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Stuart - that tar is a sound deadener intended to stop "drumming" from the large sheet metal panel vibration - musta worked cuz they wouldn't have spent the pennies to put it on if not

the foil sandwich stuff can cause condensation between it and the outer metal panel - make sure it's where you can keep an eye on things, and prolly should seal it well to the outer skin, like that self adhesive stuff

Bill


Moved over to the Passing Lane

"When we tug a single thing in nature we find it attached to the rest of the world" John Muir
"When we tug a single thing on an old truck, we find it falls off" me
Some TF series details & TF heater pics & Rust-a-holics Unanimous parking lot
#108844 02/27/2004 8:27 AM
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I'm going to need some deadning material
for the roof and any other area that has
open space for insulation. I guess I'll
have to go to home depot and see what they
have. I've seen some plastic bubble stuff
but I'm afraid that it won't last long. The
bubbles will probably get brittle and break.
I'll let you guys know if I come up with something that you gotta have. Cecil...........

#108845 02/27/2004 9:06 AM
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Thanks for the info. Mybe I will try the bubble wrap stuff on the inner door panels and rear window panel for extra sound proofing.

#108846 02/27/2004 4:04 PM
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I used Peel-N-Seal from Menard's on floor, roof, doors, etc. Worked well. Didn't break the bank.


1956 Chevy 3100
261/700r4 (formerly 3 speed OD)
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#108847 02/27/2004 6:08 PM
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Got my Peel and Seal from Lowe's Home supply roofing department. It comes in two widths, I covered everything I could, helps.


~ Cosmo
1949 Chevy Half Ton
Rocinante, like Don Quixote, he is awkward, past his prime, and engaged in a task beyond his capacities.
"...my good horse Rocinante, mine eternal and inseparable companion in all my journeys and courses." ...Don Quixote, Cervantes
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#108848 02/27/2004 7:49 PM
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I used a self adhesive foil back HVAC foam insulation from HD &/or Lowes over my Zero Rust of course. The stuff forms like gangbusters and comes in 6" & 12" rolls. Pretty cheap too.
Bruce Palmer
Salem OR
[email protected]

#108849 02/27/2004 7:53 PM
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I was at Home Depot the other day and seen a roll of insulation they sell for water heaters. It looked to be foil on each side with a cloth/jute looking center. Dont remember the price but it wasnt too bad. Im looking at using this to do the whole cab but am worried about doing the doors in it. Looks like any water that migrates down from the window area would soak the material. Any recomendations on a good spray adhesive?

#108850 02/27/2004 8:54 PM
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I wouldn't use the foil backed jute stuff in the doors where there may be a moisture problem. I'm giong to use peel-n-seal everywhere, then the foilbacked stuff on the roof, back of cab and floor/firewall. As for the doors I'll use the bubble stuff over the peel-n-seal. I want this thing to be quiet as possible. I would use 3M spray adhesive, just whatch out for overspray getting everywhere.

Good Luck
George

#108851 02/28/2004 4:19 AM
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Thanks to everyone on your input. Sounds like there are a lot of good products out there. Is the peel and seal a tar based product?

#108852 02/28/2004 5:16 AM
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Yeah, the peel & seal is like abutyl rubber.I found it a builder's supply house, was called Miraflex waterproofing membrane-$100 for an 80ft roll! Brian


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#108853 02/28/2004 5:31 AM
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64fleetside
I didn't even think of that. I am a roofing sub contractor it threw me of because we call it peel and stick. Guess I was having a little bit of brain drain.I have a rool sitting in the back yard. Thanks

#108854 02/29/2004 9:26 AM
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Don't use 3M Super 77 ... it let's go in the heat.

Use 3M Foam Fast


~~ Alan Horvath
1954 Chevy Pickup
Singing his praises in the
Passing Lane
#108855 03/04/2004 10:35 PM
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I use Dynamat you can get it at any stereo supply place. It comes in many thicknesses and sound deading.


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