The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area The HiPo Shop Power steering upgrade

Hi to all, I am a new member to your group. I have a 57 - 3100 with a 235-6 cylinder. I have recently put a Drum to disc conversion and now I am lookin. To upgrade to powersteering from manual. My concern is that there are many options out there, CPP has a upgrade that is the original type power unit and of course there are other more modern types setups. Does anyone have an opinion on what works best. Of course the other issue is the bracket for the power steering pump. Any input will be appreciated. Thanks Kevin

Welcome to the Stovebolt

I'm building a 56 3100 and I went with the Total Cost Involved power rack and pinion for the straight axle. I'm not on the road yet so I really can't tell you how it preforms, but I like the way it looks

I also can't help with the brackets as I went 350 sbc...

Mike B

I've had good success with Buffalo enterprises for the pump mount and CPP for their conversion kit. CPP might have their own steering box now. I used a Toyota box.

Hi, can I ask you Bob, how difficult was this project. You found CPP to be helpful? Curious why a Toyota pump vs. a GM product ? Thanks kevin

CPP, Classic Trucks, POL.....depends on your skills and welding equip and budget as to what kind is for you. I prefer the type using good old Chevy box and pump. Pump brackets can be fab'ed, modify one or purchase.

Thanks, Not too good at welding so I guess I will look around, sure I could take the Steering column out and have someone weld the rag joint in if needed. Thanks

Kevin,

Are you still running the straight front axle? If so check out the R&P setup that POL sells that bolts to the axle.

https://www.performanceonline.com/1...OWER-STEERING-RACK-and-PINION-KIT-19675/

This is what I have installed on my 56 3100, just not on the road yet...but soom!

Mike B

Keven1957. Your PM box is at the limit. I don't know what that means.
Toyota box mounts inside the frame and works well with stock steering column. CPP makes a kit to make it easy.

The Toyota box (84-87 4X4)is compact and has the same number of turns as the stock box. The sector shaft also comes out the side as does the stock box. The metric issue can be easily overcome by any hose shop. I installed one in my 56 in 2000 and it has many trouble free miles. It came as a kit which included a mounting bracket, drag link, coupler, steering box, bolts, and hoses for the GM pump. I modified the stock column. The current price for the kit probably about $700 not including the pump, pump brackets, & pulley. I did not purchase mine from CPP.
Fred

Curious about the axle mounted R&P. It has to have a slip joint in the steering shaft. Does the slip joint have a grease zerk or does it have some type of plastic in it? I would think the shackles and spring eye bushings would need to be in good shape to keep the shaft aligned to the slip joint. Once I used a Toyota box I've never considered anything else.

I'm using an IDIDIT column with their Double-D slip joint...there are no zerk fittings on my set up. I need to look at it to see if they would even be feasable...I think the Double -D is open on both ends.

Mike B

Hi guys, Happy New Year! I am interested in your opinions about a rack and pinion power steering upgrade vs. a typical CCP type upgrade with new power steering box. Is there any advantages between one or the other? It seems the R+P type is a bolt on where a Saginaw type setup requires some modifications. I currently have a straight axle suspension and is powered by the original 235 with 3 on the tree tranny. My current steering box is original and as you can figure has a lot of play in it. Should I plan on changing the steering column and box in either case. My goal would be keep the truck original if I can so I didn't plan on changing the engine at this point. Any thoughts would be greatly appreciated. Kevin

Nothing wrong with keeping it original. If we are talking about a 1957 3100 just rebuild what you have.

Have you confirmed the tie rod and drag link ends are all good (no play when rocking the steering wheel)? What about the King Pins? Have you adjusted the steering box per the Shop Manual instructions?

It will take a lot more money and effort to install a different steering system than it will to fix the original...new parts are available.

Mike B

Thanks Mike, hadn't thought of going that route. That's great advice, I guess I thought that the steering system was as good as it gets, I need to do some more research. Thanks again

Rack & pinion steering on a straight axle is a disaster waiting to happen. The link from the steering column to the R&P has a nasty habit of getting a bind and locking up, usually at the worst possible moment in a tight turn due to body lean and/or a rough road surface. The necessity for the linkage to change length and undergo extreme angular changes of the universal joints at the same time can, and usually does result in the parts getting into a mechanical bind.
Jerry

Thanks that makes sense. I think I am going to check out the original steering system and makes adjustments as I can. Thanks Kevin