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| | | Forums66 Topics128,090 Posts1,056,024 Members48,432 | | Most Online14,466 Apr 26th, 2026 | | AD Chevy Trucks Over 6,000 pictures Brad Allen has an awesome collection of Chevrolet factory pictures that he has set up from film strips. Check them out!
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on the Internet for over 30 years! and not clogged down with Ads! Again, thanks! | | | | Joined: Apr 2005 Posts: 1,971 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Apr 2005 Posts: 1,971 | What is the best way to deal with the black primer that comes on replacement fenders? Just sand it and reprime the bare metal again? Is the black primer any good? | | | | | Joined: Jul 2013 Posts: 863 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: Jul 2013 Posts: 863 | Builder,
That "black" primer you are referring to is actually an EDP coating. This coating is used to prevent rust. You don't have to remove this coating as it keeps the metal from rusting. My experience with this coating is to scuff it with 320 grit, primer it, let it dry, 400 grit, primer sealer, let it dry, 3m scuff pad, clean with tack cloth, then a grease and wax remover and tack again. Then paint it as you will.
Tim
"Pay attention to the details! It ALWAYS pays off."
1949 Chevrolet 3100 Series 1/2 ton Pickup 1964 Chevrolet C10 (Ol' Yella) (SOLD) 1958 Chevrolet Biscayne 2 door (SOLD) 1970 VW Beetle
| | | | | Joined: Mar 2010 Posts: 10,275 Renaissance Man | | Renaissance Man Joined: Mar 2010 Posts: 10,275 | I have seen too many EDP paint-over failures on the replacement parts available to us to trust leaving it on. The problems likely arise from improper metal prep prior to application. The symptoms which I have witnessed is the ability to scratch the paint off without much trouble. I would not want that to be the coating upon which I would put multiple layers of expensive paint. I am not saying that ALL EDP primer is bad, just saying I have seen too many that were bad and led to stripping and repainting. Carl
1952 5-window - return to "as built" condition | 1950 3100 with a 235 and a T-5 transmission
| | | | | Joined: Jul 2013 Posts: 863 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: Jul 2013 Posts: 863 | I agree with Carl to a certain extent. However, this "EDP" coating is very tough and prevents rust! If you sand it with 320 grit and the EDP coating doesn't come off the metal, then I would say you are not going to a paint peeling problem. On the other hand, the only time I have seen paint peel from the EDP coating itself is when it was NOT prepared properly. Also, keep in mind that all new cars have every body panel coated with it. This coating is what let the vehicle manufacturers offer 6/60,000 rust through protection, or better. Prior to that look at many cars of the 40's 50's and 60's that ended up looking like an ol' rusted out Schlitz beer cans.
"Pay attention to the details! It ALWAYS pays off."
1949 Chevrolet 3100 Series 1/2 ton Pickup 1964 Chevrolet C10 (Ol' Yella) (SOLD) 1958 Chevrolet Biscayne 2 door (SOLD) 1970 VW Beetle
| | | | | Joined: Feb 2002 Posts: 12,029 Cruising in the Passing Lane | | Cruising in the Passing Lane Joined: Feb 2002 Posts: 12,029 | the black finish seen on US OEM parts is EDP, the black finish on "offshore" repro parts might be anything except EDP, as fixit says, pretty easy to tell the difference, and if it's EDP, leave it be
Bill | | |
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