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| | | | Joined: Jun 2001 Posts: 169 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Jun 2001 Posts: 169 | I am not in a position to cut this up and weld in new metal. Don't have the MIG yet and don't have an area indoors to do it at this time. I need to patch it up to get me through the winter. As you can imagine any water goes directly into the pad and doesn't dry out. My tentative plan is to shape 22 ga. steel over the hole and use sheet metal screws to hold it down. I will need to seal the area with something but am not sure what to use. I'm leaning toward spray foam and then painting over it. Seems like this would be the easiest to take out when ready. Any kind of tar/mastic would be a PIA to clean up later. What would you do for a temporary fix for this problem? [img] http://66.96.166.121/images/PC030039.JPG[/img] | | | | | Joined: Dec 2001 Posts: 1,248 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Dec 2001 Posts: 1,248 | Paul, It sounds like your on the right path. I'm not sure what would be the best
thing to use to seal it up.
I don't know if seam sealer would stick to
the rust or not. You might use it between the
old panel and the piece your putting over it. | | | | | Joined: Nov 2001 Posts: 72 Member | | Member Joined: Nov 2001 Posts: 72 | Paul,
Beat out apiece of metal large enough to get beyond the rust. Then just use dome roof mastic to seal it. Screw it down and it will work. Have used it on my '60 for awhile and no problems.
Dennis
I was OK but I got over it. | | | | | Joined: Apr 2000 Posts: 247 Member | | Member Joined: Apr 2000 Posts: 247 | The sheetmetal/mastic idea will work fine. If I were you, I'd find a way to stop that rust right NOW. You can use whatever your preference is - Zerorust, POR15, or that stuff they sell in the hardware stores. The point is to chemically treat it now to keep the rust in check until you have time to fix it properly. Because, as we all know, you never get back to a job as soon as we think. By that time, you might have to spend a lot more money fixing what you didn't spend time preventing.... | | |
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