The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area Paint and Body Shop Rip and Tear Repair

Weld the rip or pound out the dent first? What works best?

MIG weld on this? Drill the end of the crack before the weld?

[img]http://webpages.charter.net/jkornmann/rip%20overview.JPG[/img]

Close up of the rip

[img]http://webpages.charter.net/jkornmann/the%20rip.JPG[/img]

Anyone have a tip on this one?

I'm no expert, but I'd try getting the panel as straight as I could first, then address the crack with the MIG. Drilling the end of the crack is unnecessary.

I 've never tried hammer welding fenders, I usually try to find good ones, till now, I've always lucked out.However, I hammer-weld alot of cracks or rips in large damaged saws at work. I work wth large band saws in a sawmill. I usually start at the last part of the crack, not where the crack is exposed to the edge.I weld about 1/8 -1/4" of the crack at a time .Then while the metal is still red or yellow ,I hammer it to shape using a hammer and dolly to the required shape and thickness(approximately).I then repeat this process until I get to the edge.Depending on the length of the tear is how long it will take .It usually takes 1-5 minutes. You can do this with carbon steal as well, I have welded leaf springs before ,but it takes one one treatment:Annealling. Any ways ,you can practice like I did 17 years ago to learn my trade by taking a piece of scap sheet metal and cutting fake tears into it and welding it back to original.
After welding some people use a grinder to clean up the weld ,some people use a flapper wheel to dress the weld, I prefer the flapper. Caution, do not let the metal get hot while dressing the weld or it may crack.
I always anneal after all welding to stop the cracking ,in case the rod Im using has carbon in it.
To anneal, simply turn down the lights and bring the welded area to the dullest red glow,just so you can barely see it. Then try to hold that for a second and slowly take your torch away(take about a minute). Guess what, you are done. I know this will take practice, I had my share of cracks reopening. If you can master this,you'll save your self a lot of money and time.
After a while you should be able to weld frames as well ,dress the weld ,and it should be invisible if done correctly.

I forgot to mention,if you are using ox/ac, to get full penitration, so you don't have to weld both sides.As you have your puddle,just poke the inner flame thru the puddle ,quickly so that it closes again.This way you are applying heat once instead of twice ,if you did weld both sides.This takes practice ,but it is the better way to go ,once you can master that process. Lothar

One more thing ,I found my FL fender=$5.00,FR fender for=$10.00,RR fender=$20.00, LR spare tirefender=$20.00 at antique car swapmeets over the last 3 years. So if you aren't in a hurry, go to the swapmeets , you may find what you want there for less than what you expect.

Thanks for the tips, Killer and Chuck.

Despite the rip and dent, the fender is in OK shape...ok..it's a mess...but I'm going to give it a try. I think I can save it..I am an optimist....The Art Deco fenders are getting tough to find....the right rear are the worst...the vision on the right side is bad...everyone must have cut the corners and remodeled the fenders!!!

take the fender lay it on flat cement use a wood block and hammer it will straighten out the crack will close then weld it or have it welded

Very good discriptions on how to Killer.

If you choose to mig weld it. Here are my thoughts:

1. Scuff the area of the tear with a angle air tool and 36 grit wheel.

2. Hammer and dolly the fender back into place.

3. Clamp the tear so that you have a perfect butt joint. Remember, your butt joint ends should NOT touch. You should have about a 1/16th inch gap (about the same thickness of a cut-off wheel) which is filled with weld. A butt joint that is touching and welded WILL crack later.

4. Tack the tear as in the picture, about every inch.

5. Then go back and start to fill in the welds. All your welds should be spot welds but you can use a 1/4 inch or so of a bead weld. DO NOT be tempted to bead weld over a 1/2 inch at a time. That WILL cause the metal to warp. Put a couple in each gap (between the 1 inch gaps) and then immediately put a cold damp rag on the weld to cool it. Continue until the tear is completely welded.

6. When done, metal finish as usual. If you're on your mark, there should be no filling required.

[img]http://www.redskyguideservice.com/MigWeld.jpg[/img]

Thanks Guys, this is good stuff!

Buddy

It's been awhile since I've updated this post. Here is the progress thus far.
I need to head for the welder next.
I can't get everything straight with the two tears in the flange.
It is time to button them up and the continue with the job.

[img]http://webpages.charter.net/jkornmann/Tear%20repair%20002.jpg[/img]

[img]http://webpages.charter.net/jkornmann/Tear%20repair%20001.jpg[/img]

Thanks guys,
I learnt a lot just now, my fenders looked hopeless until I started reading this thread, now they look tough, but repairable. Any special hints for my patchwork ?
[img]http://web.shockware.com/users/rosielle/images/ooopsifixedit.jpg[/img]

Richard

you should see the other one, this is the good one :rolleyes:

ready for filler eh!!!