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#1082208 01/29/2015 5:33 AM
Joined: Dec 2013
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M
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So the head shop here in Denver (not that kind), says my 235 head will be ready for pickup on Friday. That gives me a great shot at getting the old girl running right for the 1st time since I got her. Is there any advice out there for a guy who's never removed/replaced this type before???? I've done lots of cylinder heads but I'm wondering if there are any tips I should know. I decided on the felpro non-copper head gasket set($25. on amazon). Thanks, Marko.


Have you ever noticed that anyone driving slower than you is an idiot and anyone driving faster than you is a maniac? - George Carlin
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"It is better to be silent and be thought a fool than to speak and eliminate all doubt!" - Abraham Lincoln
Cringe and wail in fear, Eloi- - - - -we Morlocks are on the hunt!
There is nothing noble in being superior to your fellow man; true nobility is being superior to your former self. - Ernest Hemingway
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grin grin grin grin


Drew
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Head shop, haven't heard that term in a long time, wonder if they're called that in Co now? grin

I installed the manifolds w/the head on the bench. This adds approx. another 20lbs or so but when you're already dealing w/a 90+lb head you should already have a helper or chainfall etc., helping you out. It's much easier to install them on the bench than hanging over a fender.

I've used the Felpro head gasket on my 216 and it's sealed up good so you should be GTG on that. I just used a Best Gasket head gasket on a 235 I'm rebuilding and I'm more impressed with it, but again the Felpro is working out fine on my 216 w/9k miles since.

Put 2 long head bolts through the head at each end as you lower the head to the black, they will help keep the gasket aligned. Some folks cut the head off two long "spare" bolts and screw them in the block to do the same, either works. TSC has some gate hanging hardware that has the same thread as the head bolts, you can get a couple of them and cut them up and save some $$$'s.

Make sure you tighten the head bolts in sequence per the manual and do it in atleast 2 steps. Step one is to hand tighten all bolts in sequence then step two is to torque them all in sequence. Sequence is important. Some folks use 3 steps, just don't torque them on the initial tightening....

Before you install the head, clean the piston tops as clean and shiney as possible and make sure the block surface is also as clean as possible. Especially where coolant deposits collected.

Take your time and be careful, that heavy head can do some serious damage to your extremities.

Dave

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Originally Posted by Hotrod Lincoln
Don't light up a doobie until after the job is done!
Jerry

not me

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Dave your tip on the guide bolts to drop the head onto was perfect. I've tightened down the head to 80 lbs, and placed the rocker shaft. I'm wondering why the exhaust valves on #2 and #5 have a huge gap to the rocker arm? Will this change as I rotate away from TDC on #1 when I go to adjust the valve lash? I'm at the pointer on the flywheel, so what gives? Can anyone chime in?


Have you ever noticed that anyone driving slower than you is an idiot and anyone driving faster than you is a maniac? - George Carlin
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'Bolter
'Bolter
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Sometimes the pushrod can come off the top of the lifter seat and drop down beside it, before everything is adjusted. You need to have the engine rotated to the correct position before adjusting the valve. The adjuster can make up quite a bit of slack because of the lift ratio.


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Thanks truckernix, I thought about them not seating as well. I'll take another look this weekend.


Have you ever noticed that anyone driving slower than you is an idiot and anyone driving faster than you is a maniac? - George Carlin

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