The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area The Electrical Bay 1955 Gauge cluster check

So I'm planning to rewire my '55 2nd series ... took out the gauge cluster cause nothing worked. Decided to start with the gas gauge. My truck is 12v but I have a variable volt supply ... so I put 6v on the hot side and grounded the sending unit side, and it jumped to full. Does that mean gauge is working? I then put various resistors on the sending side... 10 up to 100 ohm .. and while the jump to full was slower (maybe 2 seconds instead of instant without resistor), it still went to full. I've ordered a new sending unit for the tank .. so I'll try it ... Any ideas?

it's a 12V gauge, use 12V for your checks

Bill

Thanks Bill...How can you tell....Is there a physical difference in the gauge?
Dwain

the 2nd series was 12V

Bill

OK .. just thought I read somewhere that the 6 cylinders were 6v ... and while I think this truck had a v8 originally ... I'm really not sure.
So now trying it with 12 volts and getting the same result using variable resistor POT (0-100 Ohms) ... I'll soon have a new sending unit here so I'll bench test with it.

the 55.1 was the last 6V Chev, any engine - to tell if yours was an original V8, look for riveted on engine mount brackets on the back of the front cross member, the longer 6 cyl mounts directly to the cross member

Bill

then I checked the temp sensor ... it was not connected to the motor ..just coiled under dash. put in a hot water bath and it seemed to work properly. There is a separate temp gauge mounted on the truck. so I' ll probably keep usng it.

Then I tried to figure out how to test the AMP gauge ... read several topics and just not sure what to do. If I take the AMP gauge to an alternator shop(????) can they check it?

then I checked the oil pressure gauge.... not sure how to do that.... may reconnect it to the line and start the engine .. at least it should move. This is a 327 and not the original 265 ... so I'm not sure what pressure I should be seeing.

the original mechanical temp gauge will work with any engine, provided the tube is long enough to reach where the temp sensor goes, it might if the truck was an original V8, if not you can use the aftermarket gauge or find an electric temp gauge from a 56-59 truck, which is a direct replacement and the senders can be found at any FLAPS

amp gauge can be checked for continuity with an ohmmeter, it's just a thru circuit that reads the amount [or not] of current flow, if it has continuity it'll work

oil pressure depends on condition of the engine, might be 60# cold with a good engine, should be 10-30# when up to temp, as long as it has some

Bill

then I checked the speedometer.. for some reason the new cable was twisted off at the transmission ... real mess. Tried to rotate the shaft on the speedometer with my fingers and it wouldn't move..so I put a square head in it for leverage and it turned ... and then began to move freely. Seems to turn counter clockwise to move the needle. Then i spun it slowly with a variable speed drill and got the needle up to about 50mph... so I'm thinking it's working ... whach y'all think?

yes, the drill drive is the test, but with it being tight to start, you'd be best off to open it up and clean it

Bill

Thanks again Bill

Dwain

My truck is a 55 1st, assume the gauge is 6 volt. Truck was converted to 12 volt long ago, never had an issue with the gauge except the cab used to leak and it'd quit working after a hard rain. Anyway fixed the leak but gauge still wasn't working until yesterday. Took the following notes after disassembly and cleaning connections, now it works.

F post or post connected to sender/tank

E post or post connected to ignition

Post to post resistance reads 29 ohms

F post to ground or outside of housing
27 ohms

E post to ground or outside of housing
57 ohms

Check for burnt or broken wires. Central rivet on mine was also loose and caused problem with the ground. Also need connectivity from housing to dash so clean tabs that get bolted onto the dash.

Thanks Dan.. So I took the gas gauge out of the main housing connected up a new sending unit on the bench and found my ground to the gauge housing was suspect... improved that and voila ... the gauge worked.

The whole idea is to keep from paying $400-500 dollars to rebuild this cluster.... so far the gas gauge works, temp gauge works, amp gauge passed the continuity test ... oil pressure seems to work... a bit more testing there... not sure how to do it. Now the speedometer... seems a bit tight, needle has been glued back together so I may send it out for repair. I know there are links here but is anyone willing to share a good experience with a speedo rebuild?

I used Bob's in Mich. I didn't have any issues. Not cheap but I don't think any of them are.
http://www.bobsspeedometer.com/1/120/index.asp

Brian

Thanks Brian .... nice '55!

Hey Bill..When you say clean speedo ... do you have any suggestions about how to? I took it out ... needle was broken so PO glued it back to the shaft. I was thinking of submerging the lower part of the speedo (not the odometer gears) in Kroil and soaking it , then drying it out... what'ch think?

I wouldn't soak the assembly in anything, that won't get rid of the sludge .... see the tech tip, don't need to mess with the odometer, but the gears that drive things are easily accessible, and they're the main thing that need cleaning and light lubrication .... the needles are available at any of the vendors

Bill

Dang ... good stuff Bill. I'll follow your lead ... but ain't touching that last part ..that tiny spring is mighty powerful intimidator.

Hi Bill ... How does the speedo needle come off and re-attach to the shaft?

any I've seen are a press fit, but quite tight, careful you don't break the shaft!!

Bill

...click...

good DADS, but the TF gauge has a tiny shaft, more like a heavy piece of wire

Bill

On the end of the shaft there is a disk shaped surface.... does the needle press down on the disk? Bill, I see in one of your pictures the needle is laying beside what appears to be the end of the shaft with said disk shape. Does the disk come off the shaft or is the shaft broken in your pic.
Dwain

the disc piece [nail shaped] is part of the needle, it's the 'hub' that presses on the shaft and is factory attached to the needle, the shaft is just a straight "wire" that is part of the magnet in the bell

Bill

So how do I get the needle on to the shaft or "wire".
Thanks Bill,

Dwain

needs to be pressed on, carefully - hold the shaft with a pair of needle nose pliers, push on the 'hub', not the needle arms

Bill

Thanks Bill for putting up with all the questions .... Trying not to mess this delicate piece up.
Dwain