The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area Engine Shop Timing question

If this has already been discussed I'm sorry, I've tried to set the timing on my 250 using my timing light attached to #1 plug wire.( the one closest to the radiator near the spark plug the keep away from the other wires. Thing is my timing mark on the balancer isn't anywhere close to my timing tab. It's no where to be seen, I think it's on the other side of the balancer.
Can the balancer not be bolted up correctly to the main shaft? I'm stumped. I thought there was a alignment pin down there.

My Chevy 230 balancer doesn't have a timing mark either. The previous owner made his own mark (put a very slight notch) at about 4* estimating, and put white chalk in the mark to brighten it up. Other than that I'm no help... sorry bud

Be sure to disconnect and plug the vacuum advance.

I found a line on the balancer but it's no where near where I would work timing that thing. Yes the vacuum line was disconnected, thanks.
Wonder how I could make my own timing mark.

BTW how much vacuum should I pull, seems I'm getting about 11 lbs.

It's possible for the outer casting of the balancer to slip around on the rubber ring it's mounted with and the timing mark can get WAY off. Try turning the engine by hand until the mark lines up with the indicator on the timing cover, and see which spark plug tower the distributor rotor is pointed toward. Then use a piece of soft copper wire to probe into the #1 spark plug hole to find when the piston comes to the top (also while hand-turning), and see if the timing marks align. It sounds like you need a new balancer.
Jerry

11 pounds seems a bit low doesn't it Hotrod? Maybe not with a semi-worn out engine? I think mine is pulling anywhere between 16-20 (I forget what it actually is... just know its between there).

Rubber around the balancer can slip? Well I've noticed it is coated, I'll look in to that, Thank you Hotrod Lincoln.
As far as the vacuum goes, I couldn't find a good gauge. So I bought a cheap Mr. Auto and used that but the only place I could find to hook it up was at the base of the carb. First at the distributor port then at a inboard port that was a size larger. I got a slightly higher reading there, maybe 1 lb. more. Monojet carb. If that's low I'll go get a compression gauge and check each cyl. How much compression should be on them?

First of all, vacuum isn't measured in "pounds". It's "inches of mercury". A perfect vacuum (impossible) would support a column of mercury in a glass tube about 30 inches tall. Normal intake manifold vacuum for a well-tuned and properly timed engine at idle will be somewhere in the 15-18 inch range and pretty steady, depending on camshaft profile and idle speed. 11 is WAY too low- - - -indicating very late timing and/or incorrect mixture. Be sure you're monitoring actual manifold vacuum, not some sort of ported vacuum or venturi vacuum. The vacuum port should have a strong, steady suction on it all the time, not a variable amount when the speed is raised or no vacuum at idle and an increase at wider throttle opening.

First, try to establish if the timing marks and the line on the damper actually line up at TDC on #1. If not, fix that problem before you continue troubleshooting. Depending on the condition of the valves and piston rings, cylinder compression can be anywhere from the 80's to 150 PSI or so. Individual cylinder compression should be within 10% of each other
Jerry

Yeah well what ever it's measured in the vacuum thing helped me out a lot. I adjusted my fuel setting by it then set the timing by it and I had to come in from the rain. Just took her out for some gas and can't hardly keep from spinning my tires. I found a plug in my intake manifold I'll hook up to with my vacuum gauge and see how much I pull then. I'll be getting away from my carb then, I read elsewhere to check for vacuum leaks at the manifold which I found one and will address it soon but for now it runs so much better and that's before I used new parts( plug wires, rotor, rotor cap, etc.). I have no timing mark to go by so I advanced it till it started to ping under load, backed it off a little and started checking my vacuum. It's not tired any more. I'll try permitex on my gasket and see if I need a new one.
Thanks for the help guys.

If you have a vacuum leak on your intake put a new gasket in, gasket glue / silicone won't do you any good.

Thanks I'll go get a new gasket.