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#107535 06/12/2003 12:56 AM
Joined: Dec 2002
Posts: 40
G
Junior Member
Junior Member
G Offline
Joined: Dec 2002
Posts: 40
Going to attempt replacement of the door glass felt/lace? in my 50 3100. Any advice, tips?

#107536 06/12/2003 3:28 AM
Joined: Feb 2000
Posts: 985
B
'Bolter
'Bolter
B Offline
Joined: Feb 2000
Posts: 985
Take lots of pictures so you can teach the rest of us how to do it! It would make a great tech tip.


Brian Moore
1949 3100 5 window Deluxe
"Today is better than yesterday, but not as good as tomorrow"
#107537 06/12/2003 5:52 PM
Joined: Jul 2002
Posts: 385
H
'Bolter
'Bolter
H Offline
Joined: Jul 2002
Posts: 385
Geoff, when I was trying to slide the windlace into the track around the door I found a can of silicone spray lube was my best friend. Soapy water wasn't slick enough and petroleum-based lubes will destroy the rubber. Keep a flathead screwdriver handy to "massage" the track slightly; I found a few places where it was dented and refused to let the windlace slide past.

The glass and felt channels on the doors are not difficult, just time consuming. I posted a vague description of how I did the felt channels using the glass as a press, but buying a reprint of the shop and/or assembly manual will fill in the blanks on most repairs. wink

Good luck!


1955 First Series GMC 250 1-Ton Panel
In the Gallery
Mr. Hedgehog - Follow the build
If you can't laugh at yourself, I'll laugh at you.
#107538 06/12/2003 11:01 PM
Joined: Nov 2000
Posts: 427
O
'Bolter
'Bolter
O Offline
Joined: Nov 2000
Posts: 427
Those felt rubs on teh glass are held on with steel staples. I carefully pryed up mine and then drilled out the new felt and reused the old staples and then mashed them over with a pair of vice grips.

I also used weatherstrip adhesive on them but the staples (I think) are necessary to keep it in place due to the exposure to weather and service it's in.

On the windlace, I used baby oil and the tip on the large flat screwdriver is good. Best to start at the gap up by the back top corner by leaving the amount you need to do the back edge (measure it by letting it hang down) and then pull forward and down on the front edge windlace, then take the other end and pull it straight down the back track. Trim the excess off a the bottom where it is pinched by the door edge lower track. I suspect that silicone spray would have done better for me than baby oil but I used what I had available at the time.

#107539 06/13/2003 2:00 PM
Joined: Mar 2003
Posts: 68
N
Wrench Fetcher
Wrench Fetcher
N Offline
Joined: Mar 2003
Posts: 68
Geoff,

I used 100% palmolive dish washing det. It slipped right in abd then dried to a nice smell. Use the flat head screw driver, It helps alot. Also for the felt that runs along the track I took the window frame from the inside off, cut the old stples off with a cutter then drilled new holes and used alum. rivets. You can not see the rivets after it is reinstalled back on the window.


1953 Chevy 3100
The Green Truck
#107540 06/14/2003 7:17 AM
Joined: May 2003
Posts: 1,271
A
Shop Shark
Shop Shark
A Offline
Joined: May 2003
Posts: 1,271
I just did mine last week - you can see a pic or two at my site (see link below my sig) ... plus the step-by-step procedure I used.

I removed the vent window and the door window, too. Then, putting the lace in was fairly easy. I used a small vise to press the straight lace piece into the channel on the vent window.

It sure makes a nice difference rolling the windows up and down! My truck had NO felt left anywhere!

PS - I bought my kit from LMC Truck ... they gave me a carbide drill bit and plenty of staples with my kit.


~~ Alan Horvath
1954 Chevy Pickup
Singing his praises in the
Passing Lane
#107541 06/15/2003 2:36 AM
Joined: Dec 2002
Posts: 40
G
Junior Member
Junior Member
G Offline
Joined: Dec 2002
Posts: 40
Wow, U Guys are the best....My 50 3100 has been Bas#*rdized beyond belief!!! This may take awhile...


Moderated by  klhansen 

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