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| | | | Joined: Aug 2011 Posts: 60 Wrench Fetcher | | Wrench Fetcher Joined: Aug 2011 Posts: 60 | I have a 49 1/2 ton that the owner started restoring and died. It does not run, (the engine is froze). He painted it a metallic green, someone sprayed neer and now it has a red haze to it. It has been sitting for about 5 years and now I want to start......WHERE???
Last edited by billm; 12/22/2014 4:45 AM.
| | | | | Joined: Jul 2004 Posts: 2,987 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Jul 2004 Posts: 2,987 | Others with more expertise will jump in here, but I would say first of all to get it running. Determine if you can whether the existing engine can be made to run, or if it needs to be replaced. Then get the brakes working and make it drivable. Then decide after that what else you want to do to it.
Just my two cents.
| | | | | Joined: Jan 2013 Posts: 2,232 Moderator: Interiors, Texas Bolters, Name that Part | | Moderator: Interiors, Texas Bolters, Name that Part Joined: Jan 2013 Posts: 2,232 | I agree with Rich! I wish that i would have done it that way. I started to tear it apart prior to enjoying it the way that it was when i bought it. The cost is rising quickly!
Chris | | | | | Joined: Jan 2013 Posts: 1,384 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: Jan 2013 Posts: 1,384 | Billm,
Rule 1: Do no harm. Patience is the most important thing you can have.
The engine should be evaluated first. Deciding if it needs to come out or stay in, be rebuilt or scrapped, or can be run as is really determines what kind of a project you are going to have.
Drain the oil and see what comes out. Refill with clean oil. I like to take the head off and see what is going on in the cylinders, but you can try to free it up first if you like. Remove the plugs and spray a good amount of PB Blaster into the cylinders, walk away for 12 hrs. Do the same thing again and wait. Give each cylinder a couple squirts of light motor oil and then try to turn it over with a wrench, hand crank, or screw driver in the flywheel teeth. If it doesn't move, repeat the penetrating oil for a few more days. If it still doesn't move, take the head off.
If it does move, leave the plugs out, spread something over the inner fender to catch the oil spray and crank it with the starter. After a few turns, give the cylinders a good spray of WD-40 and crank again and watch to see if you get oil pressure on the gauge.
Then you can do new plugs and points, drain the gas tank, put a new fuel filter in front of the carb. Add fresh gas and try to start it. | | | | | Joined: Apr 2005 Posts: 7,440 Bolter | | Bolter Joined: Apr 2005 Posts: 7,440 | Slow and steady wins the race. Pull the dipstick and look for signs of water. Lots of penetrating oil in the spark plug holes. You can also rock the truck back and forth with it in gear and the plugs out and the cylinders with plenty of penetrating oil. All you want to do at first is to get the engine to just move a little, then repeat the process. No battery need for this method. Once you have made a couple of full turns of the engine then use Jim's starter method to get things really loosened up. You didn't say how long its been since it did run?
Martin
'62 Chevy C-10 Stepside Shortbed (Restomod in progress)
'47 Chevy 3100 5 Window (long term project)
‘65 Chevy Biscayne (Emily)
‘39 Dodge Business Coupe (Clarence)
“I fought the law and the law won" now I are a retired one!
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| | | | | Joined: Mar 2010 Posts: 10,271 Renaissance Man | | Renaissance Man Joined: Mar 2010 Posts: 10,271 | Maybe its just me, but I always make sure that I at least have a fully functional parking brake for piece of mind. The hydraulic aspect of the braking system can wait until after body disassembly, when its easier to get to the brake lines. Billm, either take a deep breathe, or, if you are hyperventilating start breathing into a paper bag.  There are few things in life as exciting as taking on the restoration of one of these gems! Do yourself a huge favor and bag and tag everything as you disassemble. There is no such thing as too many bags. Bag and tag even the broken bolts so you will know what length of bolts you will need as replacements. It will seem daunting and time consuming, but it will save you time and a lot of head scratching in the long run. Carl
1952 5-window - return to "as built" condition | 1950 3100 with a 235 and a T-5 transmission
| | | | | Joined: Feb 2008 Posts: 1,122 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Feb 2008 Posts: 1,122 | Photos will also help, from every angle, near and far before and after any parts are removed.
Assuming the engine is the original 216, not sure if the 235 is the same, it may possible to follow the lube and various tricks others have offered, and if you can access the hand crank lugs use a long, stout screw driver to slowly move the cylinders.
I was lucky when I started a similarly described project a few years ago. I knew the front sheet metal needed to come off regardless. Did so, and had access to the engine bay. That made the engine check, front end rebuild, brake system replacement, engine cleanup and engine painting much easier.
A copy of the shop manual will also be a valuable info source. | | |
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