The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area Engine Shop Favorite Gasket Sealer Goo?

I am considering taking off some parts to see if I can figure out what that irritating sound is coming from. I will remove the oil pan, side cover, water pump, etc.
What favorite gasket goo is recommended when re-installing, with new gaskets, of course. thanks.

I only use Permatex Ultra black, its the best for all around sealing in my opnion. You must make sure both surfaces are free of oil and grease, if not the sealer will not make contact and oil can seep under it.

If you know its never coming back off, use Permatex, The Right Stuff , this stuff will seal anything. You will bend the covers trying to get them back off.

Joe

I generally just use Permatex #2 gasket sealer......

John

Permatex Super 300. It was developed in WW II for sealing parts exposed to aviation gasoline, and it's MUCH better than the old brown Permatex #3. Both of them come in the bottle with the brush built into the cap, but Super 300 is a little thicker, and almost black in color. Brush on a light coat of the liquid sealer on either the gasket or the mating surface of the metal, and bolt everything up. The sealer stays semi-flexible for about 3 days past forever! Clean up with lacquer thinner or spray carb cleaner if necessary- - - -other solvents don't cut it very well.
Jerry

Yep, Gasgacinch and Permtex300 What I use. I don't like silicone much. For Cork I glue one side to the heaviest metal part. Vaseline, on the exposed cork and clamp it down. Lets the cork stay soft and release. Works wonders on Valve covers and oil pans. Cardboard types get glued on both sides. "O" rings get no glue, just a bit of Vaseline. Carb base gaskets get some Vaseline, it helps them seal and they can be taken apart.

One other suggestion- - - -any gasket that's exposed to intake manifold vacuum gets NO sealer at all. A slight vacuum leak will pull sealer into some very unwelcome places!
Jerry

Timely thread. I was just wondering about the best way to handle the valve cover gasket on a 235. Got a new gasket...and I had assumed maybe goop between the gasket and the cover...and then dry (or your Vaseline method)between gasket and head.

If I read your post correctly, you would do the opposite?

From the amount of ancient crap on the side of my block, looks like valve cover seal has been an issue at some point. I want a good seal, but also to be able remove for minor service operations.

For valve covers I use weatherstrip cement on the gasket and cover, then use motor oil on the head side of the gasket.

Yeah, that valve cover. Glue to the cover. Vaseline on the side that goes to the head. It helps keep the gasket located on the cover. And it helps release the cork from the head. If you take the valve cover off a few times it should still seal. If you are using a 216 valve cover it helps keep the gasket under the cover on the manifold side. The valve cover needs to be gently flattened to match the head. If you don't it will leak. I have used the weather strip cement, it works well but can be messy. I like the black 3 M stuff. Motor oil works if you have some open. The brand and "weight" don't matter. I do prefer to glue the pan gasket to the block. You can see when all the holes line up and it stays in place. The weatherstrip cement works well at the joint were the rubber seal meets the pan gasket. At the front and the back. I have had the best seal with the cork in place first. Then the rubber strip. Then cement in the junction.It will stay soft for a bit while you place the pan and start the cap screws. It will seal those corners rather nicely. A wire wheel cleans off the gasket junk on the cover.