The Stovebolt.com Forums Home | Tech Tips | Gallery | FAQ | Events | Features | Search
Help is a click away!

VEHICLE
INFORMATION
KITS


at the

GM Heritage Center
All the details are here.

Searching the Site - a click away
click here to search
New here ??? Where to start?
Click on image for the lowdown. Where do I go around here?
====
Who's Online Now
2 members (NJC, 1 invisible), 109 guests, and 2 robots.
Key: Admin, Global Mod, Mod
Forum Statistics
Forums66
Topics128,083
Posts1,055,967
Members48,430
Most Online14,466
Apr 26th, 2026
Step-by-step instructions for pictures in the forums
Brad Allen's photos

AD Chevy Trucks

Pictures galore
Over 6,000 pictures

Brad Allen has an awesome collection of Chevrolet factory pictures that he has set up from film strips.

Check them out!

Lots of work on Brad's part ... pure enjoyment (and references) for you!

Big Thanks!

THANKS!

For helping keep this great
old truck web site
on the Internet for

over 30 years!

and not clogged down
with Ads!


Again, thanks!

Previous Thread
Next Thread
Print Thread
Joined: Feb 2014
Posts: 13
R
New Guy
New Guy
R Offline
Joined: Feb 2014
Posts: 13
I have a 350 installed in my 37 p/u. Truck overheats after about 10-15 minutes of run time. 180 degrees climbing to over 200, regardless of outside temp. I have adjusted timing, replaced radiator cap. Fan is close to the radiator, but no shroud. I have checked all hoses, thermostat, etc. My question, add an electric pusher fan, shroud or replace the radiator?

Joined: Feb 2002
Posts: 12,029
F
Cruising in the Passing Lane
Cruising in the Passing Lane
F Offline
Joined: Feb 2002
Posts: 12,029
depends on how 'close to the rad' the fan is, needs to be 1/2-3/4" and fairly well centered on the rad - but a 350 can easily run 210 with no problems .... also, if you have the stock 37 rad, it will use a 0-pressure cap, which isn't good enough for a SBC, which will run hotter [with more pressure] than the rad can stand

a shroud might help if the fan is more than an inch back, but you really need a pressure cap [at least 7#], which will require changing the fill neck on the rad, and an original rad might not take the necessary pressure long

Bill


Moved over to the Passing Lane

"When we tug a single thing in nature, we find it attached to the rest of the world" ~ John Muir
"When we tug a single thing on an old truck, we find it falls off" ~ me
Some TF series details & TF heater pics
Joined: Feb 2013
Posts: 56
S
'Bolter
'Bolter
S Offline
Joined: Feb 2013
Posts: 56
You would be better off to install a fan shroud as that will help, also I read in one of the forums(I cannot remember where it was) there. Was a page that told a person how to measure air flow through a radiator and gave sizes you would need to keep your engine cool. Pat


1966 Chevy C 30 1 ton truck
Joined: Feb 2014
Posts: 13
R
New Guy
New Guy
R Offline
Joined: Feb 2014
Posts: 13
Thanks, I did change the cap and I installed an overflow tank (about the size of a tallboy beer can) and it fills up completely and boils out. Larger can??

Fan is close to the radiator, within an inch or so and centered.

Joined: Feb 2002
Posts: 12,029
F
Cruising in the Passing Lane
Cruising in the Passing Lane
F Offline
Joined: Feb 2002
Posts: 12,029
does 'changed the cap' mean a pressure cap, with the proper neck?
I don't think a stock 350 should over pressure a 7# cap, but they do usually use higher, like 14#, which I doubt a stock rad would stand ... but yes, I'd say a beer can size overflow is pretty small, something like a quart can or larger would be better

Bill


Moved over to the Passing Lane

"When we tug a single thing in nature, we find it attached to the rest of the world" ~ John Muir
"When we tug a single thing on an old truck, we find it falls off" ~ me
Some TF series details & TF heater pics
Joined: Feb 2014
Posts: 13
R
New Guy
New Guy
R Offline
Joined: Feb 2014
Posts: 13
Got the radiator and grill removed from the truck. The radiator is a Harrison 46F. Upon draining I noticed some build up of sediment and junk in the radiator, like little rocks. Clearly the radiator has been in the truck for some time.

Rebuild it or replace it? After searching the forum it seems a lot of recommendations for Griffin and Walker. I also noticed a few guys on the rod forums using PCH products.

Just trying to figure out the best way to go. I would hate to put in a "replacement" only to have the same issue.

I have seen no one rebuilding or recommending.

BTW, the 350 is stock.

Joined: Feb 2002
Posts: 12,029
F
Cruising in the Passing Lane
Cruising in the Passing Lane
F Offline
Joined: Feb 2002
Posts: 12,029
I'd start with taking it to a good rad shop and have it flushed and checked, for both flow and pressure - then flush the block as well and see how it acts, could be it's just got too much build up of junk .... the old rads are capable of cooling a SBC if they're in good shape

Bill


Moved over to the Passing Lane

"When we tug a single thing in nature, we find it attached to the rest of the world" ~ John Muir
"When we tug a single thing on an old truck, we find it falls off" ~ me
Some TF series details & TF heater pics
Joined: May 2004
Posts: 1,312
B
'Bolter
'Bolter
B Offline
Joined: May 2004
Posts: 1,312
Just a thought....You don't mention if you have a serpentine or conventional fan belt setup. Are you sure the water pump is the correct rotation for your belt setup ?


1940 Chevy KC 1/2-Ton
In the Stovebolt Gallery
Joined: Feb 2014
Posts: 13
R
New Guy
New Guy
R Offline
Joined: Feb 2014
Posts: 13
Guys, thanks for the responses. I at least have a game plan. Much appreciated.


Moderated by  Fibonachu, KCMongo 

Link Copied to Clipboard
Home | FAQ | Gallery | Tech Tips | Events | Features | Search | Hoo-Ya Shop
Powered by UBB.threads™ PHP Forum Software 8.0.0